Pulling a 500E Transmission.... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

300EVIL · #1 08-01-2010, 07:35 PM

WHAT THE F%@&!!!!

I have no clue how they got this beast in but this is ridiculously tight. It took me almost an hour just to unbolt the dipstick tube. I have no clue where to start or how to properly drop the exhaust. This no where near as simple as my 300E.

Rant Off......

Anyway, I got the car up on jack stands as high as I can go. The undercarriage is in pretty good condition but the bolts that hold the exhaust sections together are completely rusted. Do I just cut these? Should I drop the whole exhaust or just part of it?

How the heck to I get to the top bolts on the bell housing?

Any tips or tricks here would be great. I also need to change the engine mounts. I got an engine hoist if that helps.

I do have a manual but it doesn't seem to cover much on removing the trans. If anyone could maybe send me the pages I need, that would be awesome!

Any tips or tricks would be great as well. I've done this before on a 300E but this seems almost impossible on a 500E.

Thanks!
Adam

duxthe1 · #2 08-01-2010, 10:15 PM

No doubt it's tight. Dropping the whole exhaust will help but that will be a challenge too on stands. Try to loosen the ex. bolts. If they snap, no biggie. The threaded portions at the manifolds are replaceable. Get the torque converter bolts early and then drop the rear mount. Get the flex disc off so that it will drop even lower. That will give you all of the room that you get to have access to the top bolts. Long extensions and flex sockets will get them. It will still seem impossible but it can be done. Large hands and forearms won't be an advantage here. You just gotta believe and it will come out.

300EVIL · #3 08-01-2010, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by duxthe1

No doubt it's tight. Dropping the whole exhaust will help but that will be a challenge too on stands. Try to loosen the ex. bolts. If they snap, no biggie. The threaded portions at the manifolds are replaceable. Get the torque converter bolts early and then drop the rear mount. Get the flex disc off so that it will drop even lower. That will give you all of the room that you get to have access to the top bolts. Long extensions and flex sockets will get them. It will still seem impossible but it can be done. Large hands and forearms won't be an advantage here. You just gotta believe and it will come out.

Hey Man,
Thanks, I can disconnect the downpipes and cat separately from the resonator and muffler so that shouldn't be too hard to get it out from under the car... I hope. I really wish I had a lift....

Good call on getting the TC bolts first. I think that's a great plan. I don't remember how I did that on my 300E.

Large hands and forearms are definitely a problem. I do have a bunch of extensions and joints though. I'd just hate to get half way through the job and have to flatbed to a real mechanic.

Thanks for your help!
Adam

duxthe1 · #4 08-01-2010, 11:06 PM

You are gonna have to wedge your arms and hands up and over the top to get and keep the socket on the bolts. I don't have large hands myself and its a challenge for me, even on a lift. A helper with smaller hands may be helpful to reach over the trans while you work the ratchet at the rear.

ashedd · #5 08-01-2010, 11:25 PM

I have long skinny arms

But in my situation I found it very helpful to gingerly jack the front of the engine up thus lowering the transmission. It was the only way to get the bolts on top of the transmission. I jacked with a wood block across the oil pan... worked on my om603. I think the 603 pan is aluminum just like the m119... I may be wrong. I just started with this m119

300EVIL · #6 08-01-2010, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by duxthe1

You are gonna have to wedge your arms and hands up and over the top to get and keep the socket on the bolts. I don't have large hands myself and its a challenge for me, even on a lift. A helper with smaller hands may be helpful to reach over the trans while you work the ratchet at the rear.

I have my little brother over the summer. He actually finished off the dip stick tube bolt for me when I couldn't get my hands in there. It'll be nice having his help on this one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashedd

I have long skinny arms

But in my situation I found it very helpful to gingerly jack the front of the engine up thus lowering the transmission. It was the only way to get the bolts on top of the transmission. I jacked with a wood block across the oil pan... worked on my om603. I think the 603 pan is aluminum just like the m119... I may be wrong. I just started with this m119

Yes! I remember doing that on the 300E. I don't know if this will work on the M119 but I'll give it a try. The pan is aluminum with a stamped steel well. It's a 2-piece pan. I wanted to unbolt the engine mounts since I'm replacing them and drop the block a little but I cannot figure out how to get to those. There is a lot of heat shielding though, maybe I'm just missing something. I can say this.... The guy that decided that this engine would fit must have had some real balls. It's a complete Cluster F%@& under there!

duxthe1 · #7 08-01-2010, 11:50 PM

After you drop the rear of the trans so much the valve covers will bind against the firewall. That is pretty much the practical limit of how far you can get the rear down. You'll also want to get the cable loose from the throttle linkages before you get it pinched tight against the firewall.

ashedd · #8 08-01-2010, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 300EVIL

The guy that decided that this engine would fit must have had some real balls. It's a complete Cluster F%@& under there!

Today was my first time laying under an m119 powered car. Once I saw a starter bump and no starter I knew this would be a wild ride. Looks more like a UFO under there than a MB. I am pretty sure I have found the oil filter finally lol.

Have fun.

300EVIL · #9 08-02-2010, 12:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by duxthe1

After you drop the rear of the trans so much the valve covers will bind against the firewall. That is pretty much the practical limit of how far you can get the rear down. You'll also want to get the cable loose from the throttle linkages before you get it pinched tight against the firewall.

Yes, I see that. When you say loose... what exactly do you mean? Should I be removing all of the throttle linkage assy or just remove the cable?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashedd

Looks more like a UFO under there than a MB.
Have fun.

LOL! That's exactly what I said!

It's instances like these when I wish magic was a real thing.

Well, I'll be happy when the tranny comes back all AMG tuned with Kevlar bands and disks.

This better be the LAST time I have to pull it out. Yes, the trans will be dyno tested to make sure that's a reality.

david s poole · #10 08-02-2010, 11:44 AM

if you guys think that that 500e is tight try working on the ultimate driving machine--bmw--all their models are that tight.

samiam44 · #11 08-02-2010, 01:07 PM

Yea... when I started working on the M119/W124's it is kinda overwhelming, but with time it's really layed out pretty well. Don't want to work on BMW's then.

My advice on upper bolts, make sure you use 1/2 or 3/4 inch drive extensions. I have a pin-locking extension with a universal joint for the top. The thicker extensions are stiffer when torquing and makes it easier to tighen or loosen.

For putting them back, you can add a small chamfer to the inside and add a thin o-ring (1/16 thick). That way the upper bolts won't fall out.

If you think it was fun getting the dip stick upper bolt out- try putting it back in!!!

Who's upgrading your tranmission to AMG kevlar frictions? Are the doing the reds/kolene steels??

Michael

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