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  #1  
Old 08-02-2010, 10:34 PM
Colorado220's Avatar
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Fan Clutch Removal: 124

1990 300E 2.6 Belt is off, bolts for the pulley is lose. I put the tool in the hole in back. Which way do I turn it? Nothing is happening. I am at a loss here!!! Please help.. Anyone local willing to help? I ordered my new tension adjuster ( this is how it all started) and want to get back on the road. Thanks!!

I have search over and over and have not found the answers.. sorry if I missed something

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Old 08-02-2010, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colorado220 View Post
1990 300E 2.6 Belt is off, bolts for the pulley is lose. I put the tool in the hole in back. Which way do I turn it? Nothing is happening. I am at a loss here!!! Please help.. Anyone local willing to help? I ordered my new tension adjuster ( this is how it all started) and want to get back on the road. Thanks!!

I have search over and over and have not found the answers.. sorry if I missed something

The fan clutch is bolted to the hub/flange attached to the bearing in the cast bracket. There are six holes in the flange four are occupied by the four 10 mm bolts that secure the pulley in position, the other two holes are located in the same circumference 180 degrees apart each between two of the occupied holes.

You can look from behind and see the back side of the hub/flange; a mirror makes it easier to distinguish between occupied and un-occupied holes.

The pulley/hub/flange is rotated to allow access to one of the unoccupied holes when that unoccupied hole is positioned directly between the cast webs in the bearing bracket. Get the tool into the hole and while holding the tool braced between the webs of the bracket, use a short 8 mm Allen tool in the single machine screw/bolt attaching the viscous fan to the hub/flange/pulley. Apply counterclockwise force to that single bolt and simultaneously prevent movement in that direction with the fan locking tool/ with the fan/clutch removed you can remove the pulley if needed by removing the four 10 mm bolts that secure it to the hub/flange.

The pulley can be a very tight fit on its ID to the hub/flanges OD, be careful not to bend it when trying to remove it as it's thin aluminum. If you heat the aluminum face around the ID of the pulley with a propane type torch it will usually expand the aluminum enough to get it off easier. Might need to take the bearing bracket/hub/pulley off the engine to work at it though! Good Luck!
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Old 08-03-2010, 07:10 AM
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Here's a picture of how the tool works.



Here's what it looks like in the car



Get your 7mm or 8mm Allan key (depending on market) use a socket extension to get leverage



'Viola
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Old 08-03-2010, 07:15 AM
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To get your new tensioner on you need to remove the fan pulley,water pump pulley and steering pump pulley. This will give you access to remove the Y pulley as shown.


You need to loosen the 19mm bolt holding the tensioer on.



Remove the tensioner shock.

Be careful when adjusting the tensioner. There is a DIY on how to adjust this in the DIY section

Otherwise this may happen



You can now remove the 19mm bolt and remove and replace the tensioner
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  #5  
Old 08-03-2010, 11:07 PM
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Wow, thanks for that

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