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  #1  
Old 08-12-2010, 12:33 AM
NOOB!
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: moses lake, wa
Posts: 137
Just got my first 1986 300E

Yesterday I picked up my first Mercedes. After a fight with the current girlfriend i happened to be over at some my parents and the lady across the street asked me if i wanted to buy her car.

One day and I really love this car!

I've been driving it 60 miles to work the last couple of days. (round-trip)

I had no problems until today.

1. the fuel gauge is bouncing back and forth all over the place when im driving.
2. the rear passender wheel makes a high pitch squeal at speeds under 30 miles an hour.
3. she didnt want to start without me pumping the gas, and when it starts the idle is under 1000 rpms and sounds like it wants to die.

4. side note thats kinda wierd... with the key off the driver door closed the radio does not play. with the door open the radio turns back on.

If you can help please do.
I plan on fixing this car and keeping it for at least 4-5 years and I'd like to keep it in better condition then when I picked it up.

Thanks.



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  #2  
Old 08-12-2010, 01:22 AM
Knappy Drag Racer
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,725
I started this thread about my flickering gas gauge and while I still haven't fixed mine yet due to lack of time, I am sure that the ideas offered on this thread and it's links hold the answer to my problem as well as yours. Flickering gas gauge W124
Regards, Eric
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Last edited by 400Eric; 08-12-2010 at 01:41 AM.
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  #3  
Old 08-12-2010, 07:08 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Southeastern PA
Posts: 3,077
Inspect the ignition system parts (distributor cap, distributor rotor, spark plugs and ignition wires). It's likely they are old/worn and need replacing. That would be my diagnosis of the poor starts and rough idle. It's also likely that the fuel filter and air filter need to be changed.

Bouncing fuel gauge is likely the result of a bad sending unit in the fuel tank. Replace the sending unit.

Right rear squeal could be due to: 1) a sticking brake caliper preventing the brake pads from releasing properly, 2) the right rear emergency brake (drum type) not releasing properly, or 3) a bad bearing. I would investigate in that order.
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  #4  
Old 08-12-2010, 11:10 AM
NOOB!
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: moses lake, wa
Posts: 137
nice. thanks for the help.
when money allows (next week) ill get a sending unit and the whole works cap rotor plugs wires. in the owners manual it says

spark plugs: BERU
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  #5  
Old 08-12-2010, 11:11 AM
NOOB!
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: moses lake, wa
Posts: 137
OOPS IT SAYS 3 DIFFRENT TYPES....
OF SPARK PLUG?
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  #6  
Old 08-12-2010, 02:34 PM
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Location: Southeastern PA
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Use only the spark plugs listed in the Owner's Manual. Platinum spark plugs cause problems with your engine. I use Bosch spark plugs in our MB automobiles.
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  #7  
Old 08-12-2010, 03:00 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NE Ohio
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NGK's BP5EFS or BP6EFS will work as well. ******** has them.
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  #8  
Old 08-15-2010, 04:56 PM
NOOB!
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: moses lake, wa
Posts: 137
thanks.

just recently the hard start is getting harder. it takes 2 or 3 really long cranks to get her to turn over.

im not sure what the problem is but the wife really likes this car and wants me to keep it around. So i need to fix it, it almost seems as if it is not getting gas.

after it starts up it dosent really idle rough but its not a perfect smooth idle either.

more help is what im looking for thanks...
jon
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  #9  
Old 08-15-2010, 05:33 PM
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You need to start by getting a baseline diagnosis...

Both compression and leakdown tests. It is pointless going further until you know the most important components are not worn out and are OK. You never know if you have a cylinder with little or no compression, in which case you will never get the car running right. A local shop can do it for your cheap if you don't have a kit.

Now look at the idle air hoses to check for vacuum leaks once you know the engine is OK. Ideally 180psi across the board with no more than 10% difference between each cylinder. As long as you are over 160psi, everything should be OK.
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  #10  
Old 08-16-2010, 08:04 AM
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New ignition parts, new filters, new vacuum lines at idle air valve (and possibly the idle air valve itself), and have fuel pressure & volume tested and injectors inspected. While you're at it, inspect the OVP and fuel pump relays. Those are basic maintenance items that may well have been neglected and are necessary in any case for a properly-running M103 motor, fuel economy and performance. There's a good chance that fixing those things will also likely correct your hard start/idle issues.
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  #11  
Old 08-16-2010, 06:52 PM
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Location: Hampton Roads, Virginia
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You've got a 26 year old car.
Lots of things can be neglected over the years, and usually are.

As these expensive cars are cycled through less discerning subsequent owners, many things are neglected.

Do a compression test, then move on the vacuum lines and tune up items.

Jim
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  #12  
Old 08-17-2010, 03:29 PM
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The fuel sender can be cleaned which will cure the glitchy gauge.
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  #13  
Old 08-17-2010, 10:42 PM
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Is it just me or did you say "fight with current girlfriend" in your first post, and "the wife really likes the car" in a later post? Either you got married in 3 days from your first post or....something else is going on!

That aside, the ignition system, temp sensors, fuel filter, air filter, etc....likely all need replacement. Hard starts can be caused by a bad fuel accumulator (in back by the pump(s).) also.
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  #14  
Old 08-17-2010, 11:25 PM
NOOB!
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: moses lake, wa
Posts: 137
call her the gf when she wants to act like one

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