start problem is bad !!PLEASE HELP!!
 

im having the same trouble in my 86 300e. mine has 126k on it and is idling rough and it starts on the second or third crank...
^ BEFORE

v NOW
this morning i went to go and get start the car before work. i cranked it over 3 short times and still nothing, so i held on the started for 10-12 seconds engine continued to crank... until if finally fired up on the 2nd 12 sec. crank.

I need to fix this tonight this is my only car while my jeep is in the body shop (GF decided to remodel the front-end)

thanks!

check the ovp relay behind battery and make sure that fuse isn't blown.

yes. i have checked this lastnight and the fuse is not blown.

what about the COLD START VALVE.... im not sure where anything is located
i cant get a manual until usps gets it here

the cold start valve DOESN'T OPERATE UNLESS THE AMBIENT TEMP IS DOWN AROUND 30F.chance that your ovp relay is defective?

How does it run after starting?

A KE injection car will run very well without the added inputs of the O2 sensor etc.
The O2 sensor is there to fine tune the injection system for emission reasons.

The OVP powers the IACV, the cold start and the EHA circuit.
If the OVP is not working the car will be hard to start when cold and the IACV will not come into play.

Disconnect the electrical connector from the EHA and the car should idle very well. if it doesn't then there is something basically wrong with the H.V. electrical's or fuel delivery setup. If the engine idles too fast it maybe that the OVP is not supplying power to the IACV.

Just because the fuse is not blown on the OVP doesn't mean it's not faulty.

great lots of help.
Ed, after i get it started the car seems to run fine. the idle is a little rough but its not shaking or sputtering badly.

can some one link me a pic of the OVP just to make sue im not being a dumb a**. and looking at soimething that is incorrect.

Note: the gas guage is bouncing back and forth. ( i hit the dash and it does not move just everyonce in a while... at all levels of gas) do you think this would cause the start problem?

thanks again

Ivan, can you post a pic of the eha location. PLEASE

Ed in Va.

Take off the Air Housing Assembly. First take off the cover that exposes the air filter, then take off the bottom half by unscrewing the 3 retaining screws and slide/lift the assembly out of the air intake and up and off. You'll see the EHA Valve (Black) on the backside of the fuel distributor(aluminum like colored tubes) towards the firewall. I took mine off this morning and made the 1/4" adjustment with a 2mm hex (take out set screw, be careful, it turns very easy and you may not realize you are turning it). It started up much easier after that and idles better.

Thanks for all your help i'm glad i found this fourm and i owe you all a solid. if your in eastern washington state i owe you a beer or two.

Ed, new battery bought and did not change a thing... it was worth a try tho!
THANKS

On my 88 300E the fuel accumulator was causing the hard starts (whole lotta Cranking)finally it would start and run ok. I also think there is a check valve by the fuel pumps that prevents fuel from running back. check those 2 items out

can someone link me a site with a dyi for clusrer removal?