New MB, New Project... Let the fun begin - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Gilly · #31 08-22-2010, 04:08 PM

At what point did I say they don't matter, that's just the OPPOSITE of what I am saying. The window switches NEED to close for the top to go past the 90 degree (pointing straight up) position.

OH wait, what I should have said is the control unit has no idea if the windows themselves are up or down. You can jump the switches to FOOL the control unit into believing the windows are down, but the control unit knows nothing other than the switches are closed.
On the later cars, where a Hall sensor is used on the windows, THEN you can't fool the control unit, it knows exactly where the windows are.

Oh and on the front latches, on the early cars, you do have to bring the top bow down manually to engage the front latches, there is a sort of handle in the center of the top header to pull down on, which was a design carried over into the later cars.

Sorry for the confusion, I stated that part wrong. It's been awhile since I worked on one and there are many differences between the early and late versions.

Gilly

96C220 · #32 08-23-2010, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilly

At what point did I say they don't matter, that's just the OPPOSITE of what I am saying. The window switches NEED to close for the top to go past the 90 degree (pointing straight up) position.

OH wait, what I should have said is the control unit has no idea if the windows themselves are up or down. You can jump the switches to FOOL the control unit into believing the windows are down, but the control unit knows nothing other than the switches are closed.
On the later cars, where a Hall sensor is used on the windows, THEN you can't fool the control unit, it knows exactly where the windows are.

Oh and on the front latches, on the early cars, you do have to bring the top bow down manually to engage the front latches, there is a sort of handle in the center of the top header to pull down on, which was a design carried over into the later cars.

Sorry for the confusion, I stated that part wrong. It's been awhile since I worked on one and there are many differences between the early and late versions.

Gilly

Gilly...

I get you now, we're saying the same thing. That it's not the position of the windows that matters but whether those window limit switches at the bottom of the door indicate that the windows are fully down that is preventing the soft top from coming past 90 degrees electrically.

I wonder what's preventing it from unlatching at the front - although looking at the troubleshooting guide, it seems like the SAME right and left front window limit switches are one of the possible causes. I really think I either have a bad driver window limit switch, OR, the ground wire supplying it has become cut or disconnected somehow. I think I'm going to start troubleshooting the wiring @ the soft top controller to see what signals it's getting.

Thanks again for all the help with everything.

George

96C220 · #33 08-23-2010, 09:04 PM

So I had a hunch this was the problem but I finally confirmed it tonight.

The driver's side window limit down switch worked - checking continuity across the two wires, BUT the wire supplying ground to it didn't. So I tested the wires at the soft top controller, and when the passenger window went down, the switch showed ground. The driver's did not.

So I jumped the two wires together (the two limit switches) - using a small piece of wire until I have a chance to trace the wire in the door..

I figured since the soft top controller drops both windows and stops when the passenger door switch trips, that the windows will still go down and back up using the top control button and they do so, hit the top up button and the top went up fine. Hit the top down button and it also went down fine. No need to touch the roof with your hand or anything to get it to latch / unlatch... Problem diagnosed, and at least temporarily solved.

Oh and Gilly you were right... It is really cool to watch

Take care,

George

Gilly · #34 08-23-2010, 10:12 PM

Glad to hear it. So the problem is wiring or the switch in the drivers door?
Gilly

96C220 · #35 08-23-2010, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilly

Glad to hear it. So the problem is wiring or the switch in the drivers door?
Gilly

The switch operates fine.. the problem is that the brown wire that is supposed to supply ground to the switch - and onto the soft top controller when the window is all the way down doesn't show continuity to ground.

According to the schematic it connects to the door switch, so I have to poke around in the door to see exactly what the story is.

I think the butcher that did the power window regulator (who also had no clue about the limit switch) - may have done a number on the driver's door.

George

newtodiesel · #36 08-23-2010, 11:52 PM

Hi all!!!

I am usually on the diesel side...still learning all about these cars, maybe considering a gasser???? You got a saaaawwweeet car

On the diesel forum they have some really good DIY's about refinishing wood
I dont know if all the years used the same wood veneers or what but it might be worth checking out and asking questions over there. They tell you what kind of finishes, sandpapers removers to use etc...Or at least it could be a good read!!! This is such an awsome forum isnt it?

Gilly · #37 08-24-2010, 04:45 AM

Thinking about moving over from the "dark side" huh?

96C220 · #38 08-28-2010, 01:53 PM

So after some investigation and searching for the right parts only to find used rear view mirrors in the wrong color selling for $200+ on ebay and at potomac etc.. I took a better look at the issue and decided to do exactly what I was saying I would do.... Glue a GM mirror to the windsheild and make it look acceptable.

I took pics of the whole process for my blog, and I will post them here as well...

I think it came out decently, and if you didn't know the car, you wouldn't know that the car didn't come with it.

More later,

George

newtodiesel · #39 08-28-2010, 02:56 PM

picts please....or web address

Still not convinced of moving from the "dark side" just yet I kinda dig that puff of black smoke every once in a while!
But more modern seats would be nice!

96C220 · #40 08-28-2010, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by newtodiesel

picts please....or web address

Still not convinced of moving from the "dark side" just yet I kinda dig that puff of black smoke every once in a while!
But more modern seats would be nice!

Look in my signature for the address to the blog.

As far as pics on the mirror here a few before and afters.

More details and specifics when I do the blog post tonight.

George

Gilly · #41 08-28-2010, 04:05 PM

The idea I had, which I would still try to do this winter if you want me to, is to try to integrate an entire mirror (as you say, from some car in a junkyard, whatever looks the best and looks like it would work the best) in to the overhead console area. So remove the entire MB mirror assembly (pivoting attachment point and all), and attach it to the area where the MB mirror is now. The color of the housing could be painted to match or just painted a soft black.
Gilly

96C220 · #42 08-28-2010, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilly

The idea I had, which I would still try to do this winter if you want me to, is to try to integrate an entire mirror (as you say, from some car in a junkyard, whatever looks the best and looks like it would work the best) in to the overhead console area. So remove the entire MB mirror assembly (pivoting attachment point and all), and attach it to the area where the MB mirror is now. The color of the housing could be painted to match or just painted a soft black.
Gilly

Gilly,

I thought about that Idea. The MB mount uses a 19mm nut and a series of washers to attach the mirror "arm" for lack of a better word. The problem was, that most of the mirrors out there, the back arm (between the mount and the foot that attaches to the glass) can't go 90 degrees vertical because of the way the pivot is designed, due to the fact that they are designed to be hung from the glass. I actually am on the lookout for a mirror from a newer Mercedes if I can find one affordably. Seems like that could work, and possibly provide more features - homelink etc. There is power, ground etc in that connector up there as needed. I left the mount in tact, just put a filler piece of plastic in there (actually cut the top off a bottle cap), and just snapped the mount back into the roof, so everything is in tact, all one would have to do is carefully remove the "foot" glued onto the windshield and the car could be taken back to stock.

The mirror corresponds to a 10" mirror used in a bunch of GM applications. I held the glass up to the replacement mirror, and it was within a millimeter or two dimension wise.

Here's what the factory mount looks like now. Mind you with the new mirror there you basically have to stick your head UNDERNEATH it to see this.

96C220 · #43 08-28-2010, 07:03 PM

Just finished the blog post for those interested.