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Old 09-07-2010, 10:10 AM
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w124 Rear Suspension Tie Rod removal

Hello all,
I wanted to refresh my rear suspension by replacing all of the links. I did the subframe bushings a few years back so now it's time to address the links. One thing that I have run into concerns the removal of the real tie rod link. The FSM calls for the use of a special puller 201-589-01-33-00. Since I do not have this tool currently available I wanted to know what your experience was. Is it necessary or can a tie rod pickle fork be used instead? Any other alternative methods of removal?

Any advise regarding the replacement of the links, is there a sequence that needs to be followed, of simply remove and replace one at a time until all four are done?

Thanks in advance

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Old 09-07-2010, 11:36 AM
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$78 for this tool here: https://www.getmercedesparts.com/oem-Mercedes-parts.html

It's hard to recommend beating on your car as an alternative--it's a bit beyond blacksmith methods, I'd think.

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Old 09-07-2010, 11:55 AM
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Thanks Kent

Thanks for the info, and yeah I'd hate to ham hand this job so the tool may be in order, I was just curious as to others experience with this as I hate to buy a tool for a one time use only. These links have 255k miles on them so I may not be doing the job again for a looong while to come.

As to sequence, is there any advice as to which order to replace the links? The FSM only describes how to do each one but no discussion of a sequence that I'm aware of.

Also I know that for installation the axle has to be horizontal, but how about for removal, can the suspension be hanging during removal or will it be binding and make the removal more difficult, thus requiring the axle to be horizontal for removal and assembly?

Thanks
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Old 09-07-2010, 04:45 PM
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Anoth tool question

OK so I'm getting the tie rod tool but have another question for the experts. In looking at my new links and mounting bolt kit, I realize that the bolts are XZN (triple Square) type, so I now need drivers for using these. Although I know that XZN and Torx are different, the new bolts have a XZN size that is very close to a Torx T-55 bit. So what size is this in XZN? M10 or M12?

Thanks,
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Old 09-17-2010, 10:22 PM
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well the job is done...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 87tdwagen View Post
OK so I'm getting the tie rod tool but have another question for the experts. In looking at my new links and mounting bolt kit, I realize that the bolts are XZN (triple Square) type, so I now need drivers for using these. Although I know that XZN and Torx are different, the new bolts have a XZN size that is very close to a Torx T-55 bit. So what size is this in XZN? M10 or M12?

Thanks,
Might as well answer some of my own questions from earlier in case they are of value to anyone else doing this job.

XZN Triple Square Size M12 is what you will need for the new bolt design, this is similar to a Torx-55 bit, but the Torx is a six point and the XZN is a 12 point, so use the XZN bit. this is also the same size as many of the MB head bolts and several other items around the car. You can buy and inexpensive set of ZXN bits usually labeled 12 point bits containing an M6, 8, 10, 12 bits for $10 or less at most auto parts stores.

As to mounting sequence, most links are accessible individually with the exception the center link mounting to the hub is easily accessed if the upper front link is removed first, so if you follow this sequence; replace center control arm link first, then the upper forward link. The lower forward link, tie rod and rear link can each be replaced in any sequence you wish.

Make sure to load the suspension before final tightening of the new links.
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Old 09-21-2010, 11:32 AM
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good idea not to use any torx on the xzn fasteners. the heads tend to be quite shallow for one thing, so the correct tool is important.

when i rebuilt the rear suspension on my car i removed the rear wheel carriers from the car and did the rear tie-rods on a shop press with improvised tooling. it may be easier to do them on the car with the special tool but in my case i was replacing all the links and also doing the wheel bearings so it made sense to do it this way.

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