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#1
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16V Oil Pan Gasket Sealant
Does anybody know if the oil pan gasket requires a sealant? and if so what type/brand of sealant should I use.
Thanks |
#2
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When I had mine off to do the chain and rails (what a nightmare especially with the motor in the car) I used a german sealant called Dirko (sp) to seal the pan. I have used this product alot when doing repairs on my 911. Works great and cleans up easily. You could also probably use the MB sealant that is recommended for the front chain cover. Personally I do not know if it is recommended or not but I would shot myself in the head if I had to pull that pan again due to a leak.
Have fun!!!!! Tinker |
#3
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MB doesn't recommend any sealant with THIS gasket, HOWEVER I use a very light coat of the factory silicone sealant(Loctite 5900) to hold the gasket in place. Just remember that you have 10 minutes or less to bolt the pan on with this type of sealer.
__________________
MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES) ASE Master Technician Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times) 44 years foreign automotive repair 27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer) MB technical information Specialist (15 years) 190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold) 1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold) Retired Moderator |
#4
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Thanks for the tips. I'll go ahead and assemble it without the sealant and see how it goes. Keeping my fingers crossed.
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#5
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steif1,
I know this is off the subject but I need a little help on that speedocable thing. As you know my speedometer was making this noise so I took it out to drop a few lube in it but now I can't reach in and hook the speedocable back on!! I try going the way you said from the bottom, you mention the a/c duct, so I reach in I can't seem to move it a single bit?! My question is (from looking up) do you try to remove the duct from the left or on the top near the driver side vent?! John16V |
#6
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John,
How did you get it out??? Yes you grab that plastic duct vent and pull it out from the left. Don't worry about hurting the duct, it is nice an pliable. Then you have to reach all the way up underneath and behind the cluster to attach the cable. First time might be a bit difficult.... after the fifth time you will be able to do it in your sleep. The other possible alternative would be to unhook the cable at the trans and feed some stack into the car. I have never done it that way....but it is possible. Tinker |
#7
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John 16V,
I always pulled mine from the left (looking from underneath) from the center AC duct (not the driver side vent) . Like Tinker said.... pull on the corrrugated flexible duct. It will come off. Then reach under and behind the cluster to attach the cable. Steif1 |
#8
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What's the best "plan of attack" to replace a leaking oil sump gasket? Remove all 1,000,000,000 bolts and let it drop down a bit then change gasket from that position?
Seems like a tough job if you don't have a shop lift -- and mine is leaking ~Paul ____________________ '91 300E, 206k miles |
#9
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Paul,
I'm not sure about your car but on a 16V you can raise the engine with a lift from above until the oil pan clears the crossmember. Benzmac(?) mentioned in one of his threads that it is also possible to remove the engine mounts, raise the engine with a floor jack to the oil pan and place 4X4s to temporarily support the lifted engine while you replace the gasket. Hope this helps. Steif1 |
#10
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Tinker and Steif1,
Thanks you guys, I ll give another try soon as my head heal a little.....I kinda scratch myself good doing the process of putting the cluster back on. BTW I pull the cluster off using that special tools and reach behind it to unscrew it.....and yes I can't get it back on!! John |
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