I'm curious about doing a front end rebuild on a budget...

I have a new "clunk" I'm hearing when I put the car in reverse, and sometimes when turning the wheel all the way. I just put about 850 miles on the car this weekend (24.6 mpg first tank and 26.2 mpg the second tank, which I was really happy with) and starting hearing it over the weekend. It's definitely up front, and sounds like it's coming from the front right.

I don't think the car has had anything done to the front end. It's at about 114k now.

I'd love to put all new bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, struts, etc. on the front, but frankly, don't have the money.

I'm sure I can find the clunk and address whatever is causing that issue, but beyond that, what would be the most beneficial to replace if I only spend an additional $200-300? Or is that not even feasible?

If there are any sites to check for parts, that info would be great as well.

Thanks.

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Ty H.
'87 300E 135K Miles

Clunking can be the flex disk so check that out for sure.

Suspension-wise the most important items will be tie rods (don't buy the ends...it is more economical to just buy the entire arm), ball joints possibly and sway bar bushing.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

...also, check your vacuum line from engine manifold to transmission. Mine came loose at the trans when I blew a heater hose and repaired it. Had lots of clunking when engaging and downshifting. Was gonna replace trans filter and fluid when I got underneath and saw it hanging loose.

Have looked to the suspension springs in the front.

keep us posted

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Keep us posted especially if your problem is solved
Present cars:
My car: E-class 420CDI, 2008, W211, V8, 180 000km

Wife's one: C-class 220CDI Sport Coupé, Euro, 2002, W203. 345 000km

Son's one: GLK class, 220CDI, 2009, W204

Sold: E-class 260E, 1988, W124, Wonderfull car sold after 489 000 kilometres of reliable services (engine M103, clutch, brake system and 5 speed manual gear box all original).

Sold: E-class, 320CDI, W210, 2000, 225 000km

If you're lucky, it's just the swaybar bushings.

There is no right way to do a suspension rebuild on the cheap, other than just being lucky that the expensive parts are all good.

What to replace with $200-$300? Start with anything that has play, wear, or damage. Be sure that the ball-joint boots are good, not a bad PM item to replace them. Beyond that? If it's good, leave it alone and move to the rear suspension and subframe bushings.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

So my clunk was the center link. The idler arm end was shot. I got the part online and replaced it tonight. No more clunk...that's good.

The damper has no shock action to it at all. I can compress it or extend it as easily as could be. Seems like it's shot. But, what purpose does that thing serve anyway? What problems should I be noticing? How much of a difference is a new one gonna make?

Thanks in advance.

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Ty H.
'87 300E 135K Miles

With stock tires and a tight suspension, pretty much no difference. With wider tires, the steering stabilizer is noticable.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Thanks for the info.

On your previous post, you mentioned moving to the rear suspension and subframe bushings. Just curious what I need to be looking at on the rear suspension?

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Ty H.
'87 300E 135K Miles

Subframe bushings, all the wheel links, inner wheel carrier bushings.
Plenty of info on this site for seeing what all the above are about.
Good luck.

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1987 300E