HID Xenon light kit for my 400E - Page 8 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

iwrock · #**106** 05-11-2011, 02:22 PM

In my case, I needed capacitors to solve the flicker, and power off when I first turn on my HIDs. The ballasts that DDM, VVME, HIDextra, etc use are not exactly efficient, and to stabilize the input voltage, I used a capacitor.

ps2cho · #**107** 05-11-2011, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iwrock

In my case, I needed capacitors to solve the flicker, and power off when I first turn on my HIDs. The ballasts that DDM, VVME, HIDextra, etc use are not exactly efficient, and to stabilize the input voltage, I used a capacitor.

You think that's the issue maybe?

I have not dealt with capacitors before, any specific one you are using?

iwrock · #**108** 05-11-2011, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ps2cho

You think that's the issue maybe?

I have not dealt with capacitors before, any specific one you are using?

http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=617166

I am using 4700uF 35 volt capacitors from radio shack.

mike-81-240d · #**109** 05-13-2011, 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iwrock

This is what the OEM Xenons in the W202 C43 AMG look like:

Appears to have the same amount of bleed... And those came factory equipped....

That's stunningly terrible. How old are the burners?

iwrock · #**110** 05-13-2011, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike-81-240d

That's stunningly terrible. How old are the burners?

All OEM that were installed on the car from the factory. Figure 12 years.

mike-81-240d · #**111** 05-13-2011, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iwrock

All OEM that were installed on the car from the factory. Figure 12 years.

That means they have less lumens than a set of new halogens. Replace em. It'll be like night and day. Back to 2500 lumens, instead of around 1100-1500.

BAd124 · #**112** 05-21-2011, 01:11 AM

OK, finally got time to install my HIDs. So far I am pretty impressed with the output. I opted for the 55W 4300k's to stick as close to natural color as possible.

On back roads its amazing to see the difference. Its just pure white light and you can see signs from a mile away.

I adjusted the levels to an appropriate height and after about 45 mins of driving I've not gotten 1 flash from oncoming traffic. I chalk this up to the superior beam control of the Euro's. No way would I attempt with DOTs. I have not yet installed the level adjust.

I will put some pictures up tomm night.

JohnM. · #**113** 05-21-2011, 09:46 PM

Pics of the beam pattern would be great, what kit did you use?

BAd124 · #**114** 05-21-2011, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnM.

Pics of the beam pattern would be great, what kit did you use?

Ok, I had planned on putting some pictures up tonight but its been raining so I havent been able to get clear shots. For the time being it looks very similar to the earlier pictures that were posted of the 124.

I used the DDM 55W 4300K. Its awesome, like driving around with super bright high beams on but without blinding people. More than once I have gone to turn the "high beams" off thinking they were on.

The 4300K light range does not have any blue tint so they just look like super bright halogens so it avoids looking like a high school kid with a Honda. Once I get some shots I will post em

ps2cho · #**115** 05-23-2011, 10:21 PM

Where did you wire the power to? Just curious....

I'm wondering if wiring to the blower motor fuse eliminates the need for a capacitor since the factory wiring stores some energy? Anybody know if the wiring through fuse box etc would have any sort of capacitors somewhere down the line from the factory?

BAd124 · #**116** 05-24-2011, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ps2cho

Where did you wire the power to? Just curious....

I'm wondering if wiring to the blower motor fuse eliminates the need for a capacitor since the factory wiring stores some energy? Anybody know if the wiring through fuse box etc would have any sort of capacitors somewhere down the line from the factory?

Currently I have the power connected directly to the battery. However a few times I have had to switch them on twice times before they stay on consistently. Initially they will turn on for about 1 sec, then off. Turning the knob again ignites and stabilizes them. DDM suggested putting a 25a fuse in place of the 20a in the power line. This did not seem to make a difference.

They also suggested bumping the stock fuse by 5a but I am hesitant to do that. I have visions of melting wires and smoke resulting

Plus if the main power is coming from the battery, the original wiring should be acting more as a "signal" to the ballast rather than supplying power. Which it is getting a "signal" because it does turn on briefly.

If its a grounding issue I would assume it would not fire at all or more randomly.

I want to try the capacitor approach mentioned before - http://www.argyrides.eu/bmw/mods/bi-xenon_install_lcm/xenon_lcm.htm

At any rate, this is a small detraction to the overall improvement gained

JohnM. · #**117** 05-24-2011, 02:45 PM

Looks like the new slim DDM kits need a capacitor.

ps2cho · #**118** 05-24-2011, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnM.

Looks like the new slim DDM kits need a capacitor.

Looks like it...I shot the tech support an email about it so we will see what they recommend.

I had grounding issues when I installed the Raptor Kit on my 260E -- you get flickering or no power at all.

Since I can replicate almost to the second how long it takes to shut off, its gotta be capacitor issue.

EDIT:

Found this on their support site. Looks like it sums everything up:

Quote:

Dodge Ram Flickering

ArticleHigh/Low HID Kits installed on Dodge Rams may present with flickering on the low beams and, to a much lesser extent, with flickering on the high beams as well. The flickering may ultimately result in the HIDs turning off. In most cases, it's possible to correct this flickering (and turning off) by installing one of the following components: 4700 uF Capacitor, 100 ohm/25W resistor, 6 ohm/50W resistor, or a 100 ohm/10W resistor. Only one of these components will be necessary. Based on customer input, the Capacitor and the 100 ohm/25W resistor have been most reliable as a solution. Also, the Raptor ballasts tend to be more amenable to these solutions than the DDM Slim ballasts (for reasons that aren't clear to us). Therefore, if the flickering isn't corrected using a resistor or capacitor and the kit has DDM Slim ballasts, you may need to switch to Raptor ballasts. We can set up an exchange for you if the ballasts are in Brand New condition; please contact us for that.

Because the Raptor ballasts are more likely to respond to the Capacitor and Resistors described above, we strongly recommend installing Raptor HID kits in the Dodge Rams.

The Capacitor or Resistor needs to be connected between the ground wire and the trigger wire of the circuit that is affected (generally, the low beam circuit). From a functional standpoint, it doesn't matter if the component is wired into the H/L harness or the stock hiring however, modifying the H/L harness will void the warranty of the harness.

Another option to prevent the flickering is to install a low beam only HID kit. We have taken reports that the low beam only version often (but not always) does not experience the flickering problem.

BAd124 · #**119** 05-24-2011, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ps2cho

Looks like it...I shot the tech support an email about it so we will see what they recommend.

I had grounding issues when I installed the Raptor Kit on my 260E -- you get flickering or no power at all.

Since I can replicate almost to the second how long it takes to shut off, its gotta be capacitor issue.

EDIT:

Found this on their support site. Looks like it sums everything up:

Thats good info. At least they recommend a capacitor as a viable solution. It sounds like this will be the best way to go.

Strange, I have these exact same ballasts (though not hi/lo) on my Audi A4 for 2 + years, but without the harness (just plugged into the stock wiring) and have never once had a single misfire

I wont be able to test this out for another 2 weeks. Will post results, but if additional people have success please post results

ps2cho · #**120** 05-25-2011, 01:21 PM

Off to radioshack to get the capacitor:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102508

I did some further searching and it seems that the 35W Ballasts do not have this issue (BMW forums).

I'll post back later when I get it all done. Fingers crossed capacitor doesn't explode