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  #1  
Old 01-19-2011, 10:59 PM
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Losing Reverse, 1991 300CE, 722.359 tranny

1991 300CE with 172m. I've owned the car since 111m and this is the first instance of tranny problems. I noticed that when shifting into reverse there in no "tug" as it engages as there usually is. After shifting into reverse and noticing this I would be very ginger in applying gas. Anything other than a very light touch and there is a noticeable bump as it engages. The car will travel in reverse after the bump as normal, then forward gears are normal.

Bad news? Adjust fluid level? (Pray) Modulator valve?
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  #2  
Old 01-19-2011, 11:16 PM
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does the car take a while to go in reverse? if you add gas does it respond immediately or does it rev up and slowly start to go in reverse? I'm currently having the same problem, it would be interesting to see what it is. Try checking the fluid level, the vacuum line, and the modulator.
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  #3  
Old 01-19-2011, 11:28 PM
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The 722.3 in my SDL did a similar trick... it started taking longer and longer to engage, then wouldn't engage till you reved it, then it quit all together

-J
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  #4  
Old 01-20-2011, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsmalley View Post
does the car take a while to go in reverse? if you add gas does it respond immediately or does it rev up and slowly start to go in reverse? I'm currently having the same problem, it would be interesting to see what it is. Try checking the fluid level, the vacuum line, and the modulator.
It revs a bit and slowly goes into reverse. I am almost certain that if I give it too much gas too quickly and it will engage with a "bang".
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  #5  
Old 01-20-2011, 03:17 AM
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I'm guessing the transmission is going out. anyone else wanna chime in on this? try looking at some posts by mb d.o.c, he has great knowledge on this.
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  #6  
Old 01-20-2011, 04:20 AM
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glenmore, transmission fluid & filter should be changed every 30,000 miles. If you don't follow that routine change the fluid & filter and see if that helps/resolves the condition.
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  #7  
Old 01-20-2011, 05:10 AM
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Pull the transmission pan and look for signs of sediment in the bottom of the pan. If there is then changing the filter and tranny oil is fruitless.
Clutchpack or rebuild for you.
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  #8  
Old 01-20-2011, 08:08 AM
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Dropping the transmission pan without first draining the fluid is a mess waiting to happen. Good luck with that approach.
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  #9  
Old 01-20-2011, 08:10 AM
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I've been having the same trouble with my 722.34. Check out the thread "Transmission Quandry" for more info on the problem.
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  #10  
Old 01-20-2011, 03:59 PM
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Has anyone had experience in just having the reverse clutches repaired?

The quotes I have gotten are $725 for removing tranny and rebuilding the reverse part or a full boat rebuild for $1600-$1800.

I'd like to keep the car for another 5 years or so.
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  #11  
Old 01-20-2011, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenmore View Post
Has anyone had experience in just having the reverse clutches repaired?

The quotes I have gotten are $725 for removing tranny and rebuilding the reverse part or a full boat rebuild for $1600-$1800.

I'd like to keep the car for another 5 years or so.
Enrique at Mr. MB Motors installs rebuilt transmissions for W124 chassis cars for less than that with a 1 year warranty.
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  #12  
Old 01-21-2011, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenmore View Post
Has anyone had experience in just having the reverse clutches repaired?

The quotes I have gotten are $725 for removing tranny and rebuilding the reverse part or a full boat rebuild for $1600-$1800.

I'd like to keep the car for another 5 years or so.
Here's a good write-up on replacing the B3:


B3 clutch pack - 722.361 Transmission
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  #13  
Old 01-26-2011, 01:53 AM
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It would have been a stretch for me to attempt this repair myself so I took it to a shop.

Typical failure for this tranny is losing reverse.

Rebuilt installed for $1650. He put in a new rear seal while he was there. Car shifts great now. Actually it always had shifted perfectly, just was losing reverse.

FWIW, the guy said don't waste money on fancy fluid like Mobil 1. Plain old Dextron will work fine. The most IMPORTANT thing you can do is change fluid regularly like 24k-30k for mechanical trannies and maybe a bit more, like 40m, for electronic ones. Trannies coming in without fluid changes (i.e. lifetime fill ~60m+) are coming in thrashed, just worn out. He suspects that because of the long interval of change, the fluid in there becomes loaded with particles which act as abrasives against any and all internal parts.
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