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  #1  
Old 01-08-2002, 08:43 PM
lakelover
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W126 Motor Mounts

I've read most or all of the posts about replacing motor mounts and I'm about to give it a try. My question is the same as others I've seen but I haven't read a clear solution: how to access and remove the two top bolts on the driver's side where is very little wrench space. The best direction seems to be to take out the center bolt and the lower nut on the engine strut then jack up the engine to allow space for a socket, allen wrench. I assume that I will have to do the same on the passenger side before I can raise the engine. Is that right? I've also read one post that Mercedes specifies certain "clearances" when replacing the mounts. My CD shop manual makes no reference to clearance spec or even where clearances are measured, so I guess I'll ignore that point. (The CD shop maunal has a clear diagram of parts but not much on the actual replacement.) I'll appreciate any and all advice.
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  #2  
Old 01-08-2002, 09:25 PM
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Jerry, I replaced the engine mounts on my W116 and you are on the right track about loosening the big bolt underneath first. You also want to remove the top bolt for the engine shock, but if the bottom is easier for you then go for it. I did both mounts at the same time. It is a pain to get to those allen (hex) head bolts. Really the only thing holding the engine onto the frame is 2 10mm allen head bolts. These you get from underneath. Once you have these out, and disconnected the engine shock, all you need to do is jack the engine up. Be mindful of the radiator fan blades, as they may get caught on the fan shroud. What I did was loosen the fan shroud so that it would go up along with the fan. Also be careful to only jack it up as high as you need, no further. In theory, you could rip the radiator hoses off. I used both a regualr allen head key and a long allen head "T" that I bought from Sears. Mostly you will use the small allen "key". It is time consuming, but the it definetly makes a difference.
I hope I didn't confuse you at all.
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  #3  
Old 01-08-2002, 11:01 PM
TurboTurbine
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hey lake lover.
dont over complicate the situation with clearences and all that.
here is the meat.
1-loosen (carefully) the large 8mm bolt from the bottom. be careful becaues it will be frozen as can be.
2-jack up the engine till you have enough space to work dont worry if the car moves up. this is the springs lifting the car. Use the oil pan to lift the engine with a thick piece of wood between the jack saddle and the oilpan.

3-remove the 6mm bolts they are a little tedious but do able from the top. just keep at it.
4-insert the new mount,lower the engine , tighten the 6mm bolts, the 8mm bolt and your done. also only do one side at a time. try not to remove both the 8mm bolts at once.
good luck.
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  #4  
Old 01-09-2002, 12:09 PM
lakelover
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Motor Mounts

Thanks for the clear directions. I'm going to do it today and let you know how it goes. I'll do one mount at a time but I'm wonder what will happen when I jack up the engine with one 8 mm bolt still locked in place. I guess the engine will roll a bit . . . anyway, I'll find out.
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  #5  
Old 01-09-2002, 08:56 PM
lakelover
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Mounts Replaced

Thanks to your precise directions I have successfully replaced my motor mounts. Removal of those top bolts are tedious to say the least; they test a person's patience. My only panic moment was when I dropped one of the bolts inside the engine compartment and took the better part of an hour to find it. Lesson learned: keep all bolts in a safe place and definitly not over the engine compartment.
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  #6  
Old 01-10-2002, 01:02 AM
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Greenville, NC
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Good info!!!!

My W126 mounts are over due, getting tired of the "paint shaker" effect!

How about replacing the the engine mount shock absorbers?

Is it also a good time to do the tranny mounts?
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  #7  
Old 01-10-2002, 02:15 AM
TurboTurbine
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you might as well change the engine shocks since you are down there. i have not done them yet but it seems that they are very simple to replace once yu get the engine off the mounts.
i had perhaps some of the worst vibration you can imagine in a diesel.i mean paintshaker is an understatement. my mounts were actually split in half and the engine was sitting directly on the chasis practically. i had to keep the foot on the gas pedal all the time just to keep the windows form rattling out. the second i replaced the front motot mounts the car was like new so the engine shocks were not apparently required. i cant say much about the tranny mounts but if vibration is your woe the front mounts will improve it 99%. good luck
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  #8  
Old 01-10-2002, 11:03 AM
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Hey Jerry, how did you make out with your transmission ?
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  #9  
Old 01-10-2002, 12:27 PM
lakelover
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Transmission

Dave, I'm scheduled to take the car into Dallas next Wednesday to an independent Euro shop. It's a small shop that I'm told is honest and communicates closely with their customers. If I don't feel comfortable with the shop's response to my transmission problem I won't leave the car. In fact, I'm considering not doing anything for the time being but my concern is that the reverse problem may migrate to other elements of the transmission. --- Jerry
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  #10  
Old 01-10-2002, 06:08 PM
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I would be careful and keep the transmission out of reverse. There are hard parts inside that are rubbing. Very common failure for this transmission.
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78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
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  #11  
Old 01-10-2002, 09:13 PM
lakelover
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Thanks, Dave. . . I'll try to limit the reverse, and I'll let you know what happens next week.
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