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Old 01-11-2002, 09:07 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Sunny Florida
Posts: 199
W126 idler arm bushings

The car is a 1989 560 SEL, and I want to remove the little play I have in the idler arm bushings. I have ordered the replacement kit from Phil, and I intend to hit this job over the weekend.

In reviewing my manual, procedure 46-520, I see two special pullers for the bushings. Are these required, or is there a method of pushing them out without investing in these tools? I appreciate any help or insight on this job.

1989 560SEL (172k)
1989 325IC (122K)
2004 Suzuki Volusia LE (3500 miles)
2005 Yamaha Road Star (20 K miles)
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Old 01-11-2002, 11:29 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Vienna, WV
Posts: 121
I've done a W201 and a W123 without the pullers. All you need is a combination of punches, screwdrivers, channel locks and maybe the old bolt you have removed. (Along with a hammer.) You aren't trying to save the old bushings. Just try not to bang up the journal the bushings fit in or the other steering components if you haven't removed them.

Don't know about the 126 but I'm pretty sure I could change the bushings without removing the tie rods and drag link on a W201.

Good luck.
Tom Savage
Vienna, WV
1984 300D Euro
1995 S320
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Old 01-11-2002, 02:03 PM
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smoke gets in your eyes
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 18,745
If the old bushings are worn enough that you can feel play, they should pop right out. I applied SilGlyd(sp?), which is a silicone lubricant available at NAPA, to the new busings. Don't use WD40 or grease or anything that is not compatible with rubber. I don't recall having to struggle or use special tools to get the new bushings in.

On a 300SE, the exhaust has to come off to replace the big bolt. I hope you don't have to go through that trouble on your 560. A cheat of questionable value is to the install the bolt from the bottom. With the super high torque specification, I doubt it would back out. But consider the risk.

91 300SE
81 300SD
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Old 01-30-2002, 07:30 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Sunny Florida
Posts: 199
Just to properly close this thread out:

Well, this job was not too bad. And to answer Sixto's question, there is plenty of room to move the bolt out and put the new one back in on the 560.

I used a very long extension on the head of the bolt, going in from the top, and wedged a wrench on the nut to break the old one loose. No sense in laying on the ground to do that. Much easier this way.

I wouldn't do that to tighten the bolt though. All those extensions make the readings just plain wrong! (I used to have a table telling you how to figure it out) Getting all that torque on the bolt laying on your back is some fun though. 180Nm, I think.
1989 560SEL (172k)
1989 325IC (122K)
2004 Suzuki Volusia LE (3500 miles)
2005 Yamaha Road Star (20 K miles)
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