W124 Fuel tank removal + Flushing questions...
 

Alright...its time to tackle it.

My 260E was running so poorly due to rust in the tank its confirmed 100%. I need to have the distributor rebuilt, but first I must get the fuel system completely clean.

I don't really know anything about the fuel system backwards of the distributor, so to ensure that everything is flushed what's the best approach here?

I believe removing the fuel tank is not too difficult right? The factory manual doesn't look too bad...but what about once the tank is removed, what work should I do other than replacing the fuel filter because I DO NOT want to risk clogging a brand new distributor!! THAT would be just a waste of $$$.

Would you guys recommend I replace the pump or leave it alone? Any other fuel system components that could have gotten trashed?

I would like to get the car back up and running now that the wagon is caught up with!

Thanks :thumbsup:

Either find a fuel tank from a recent wreck OR remove the old tank & have it cleaned at a
shop that can clean & seal that tank.

Most likely the pump is toast as well.

Thanks mbdoc. I plan to have the tank professionally cleaned. I believe it is a safer long term option.

Regarding the pump, is there any parts inside that can be jammed or will just a thorough soaking in clean fuel/carb cleaner might suffice for now?

I think I may upgrade to the dual fuel pump setup of the later models in the near future, but for right now seeing if I can keep the cash in the wallet.

ps2cho, I have read about removing the fuel pump, filling the outlet with kerosene and running the pump backwards for a few seconds clears out any debris. In your case that's probably worth a try before investing in new fuel pump(s).

Cool thanks.

Once the pump is checked/cleaned, whats the best approach to make sure there is nothing else lingering in the system?

EDIT: Also what about the strainer?

Looks like I have two pumps! Must have been factory updated? I didn't believe 87 had two pumps at factory...

http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/p...tank/tank1.jpg
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/p...tank/tank2.jpg
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/p...tank/tank3.jpg
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/p...tank/tank4.jpg

I cannot seem to get a hose down the fuel tank. Is there some sort of anti-siphon built in?

How do I get these rivets out? Manual calls for a special tool, but any other ideas?

Got the fuel out today. I disconnected the fuel line at the accumulator and put my hose over it...it came pouring out until empty.
As I thought....12-13 gallons. The fuel looks clean, so I may just filter it using coffee filters and re-use it? Should be safe to do right?

From what it looks like, the fuel filter simply failed. I'm going to crack it open and see out of curiosity. I am still gonna get the fuel tank taken care of though.

Also, now that I am looking at it, do I even NEED to take out the fuel filler hose adapter with those rivets?

Is the tank rusted on the inside or just loaded with rust particles? I can't imagine how a tank can rust on the inside unless it was a storage issue.

I had to deal with a contaminated tank once on a new car. I removed it, blasted it with a garden hose on the inside, and dried it well before putting it back in service for a permanent fix.

Not sure...all I know is rust clogged the distributor. The gas was coming out brown and full of particles out of the injector lines. I bet the fuel filter simply split, but I don't just want more rust sitting in the system to simply clog again.

If the filter split, which is most likely what happened, that should not have affected the gas tank? Since it is before the filter? You said the gas drained from the tank was clean.

I wonder is it possible to flush the tank without removing it?

Are there any sort of re-rust products that I could simply flush the tank until it comes clean?

I'd just replace the filter and accumulator and go for it. If it does it again, then go for the tank. I replaced all of the fuel components under the car (2 pumps) and it only took me a couple hours (didn't need to either...arghh!). Make sure to get new crush washers!!! Let me know if you have any ???s.

sptt

why do you recommend replacing the accumulator? If I know its holding 3bar pressure overnight, then it should be ok right?

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I think this is what I will do:
1) Replace fuel filter
2) 2 gallons of Evapo-rust from Kragen/O'Reilly parts.... (the rust particles will only be at the bottom so I shouldn't need more than 2gal.)
3) Let it sit for 4-8hrs. Drain out.
4) Flush out with 5 gallons water until it comes out clean.
5) Flush out using 5 gallons gas until clean to double check. Fill up with new gas
6) Add 3-4 bottles ISO-Heet to make sure any residual water is taken care of.
7) Disconnect main fuel line to distributor, turn on pumps and keep flowing fuel until any residual left in the system is removed, AND to ensure its coming out clean this end.
8) Install new distributor. (comes tomorrow!)

Yes. You don't have to replace the accumulator but while you're down there...otherwise I'm sure you are ok for now. I just replaced everything to prevent future "old parts" issues. My prssure is so much better now that I can hardley get the gas cap off sometimes :o. Before, it practically removed itself.

Flushed it until it came out clean....new filter, everything looks good.

Now, how do I jumper the fuel pump relay properly so that I can disconnect the main fuel line at the distributor and run it to ensure there is no residual junk floating around the system?