Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 01-20-2002, 10:43 PM
Mattman
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
The replacement radiators have steel sleeves inside the neck to reinforce them and prevent against a failure like the earlier ones.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 01-20-2002, 10:47 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 758
Greetings,

Why not salvage what you've got if that is the only inherent problem with the radiator? Once again, money spent doesn't justify the results.

Charles
__________________
"Tell me and I will listen, Teach me and I will learn, Show me and I will accomplish, Involve me and I will succeed."
'84 300SD 256,000 Gold on Brown (Mileage Award)
'86 300E 246,000 Blue on Tan
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 01-20-2002, 11:39 PM
Mattman
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
I agree with repairing where possible, in my situation I didn't want to repair the neck as it doesn't solve the problem and will reoccur. As well as replacing the top tank the core was found to be leaking during the pressure test so the whole thing was replaced. I do think it's best to do everything once, I don't want to go back and revist my cooling system again so I have replaced all hoses and belts as well. Overheating is a major pain.

Matt.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 01-21-2002, 10:59 AM
G-Benz's Avatar
Razorback Soccer Dad
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Dallas/Fort-Worth
Posts: 5,711
In short, you only need a screwdriver and a wrench to perform the entire operation. The fan shroud is attached and removed without tools, and the rad is held in place by a couple of metal clips that you pry off (with the same screwdriver you use to loosen the clamps on the two hoses). The rad sits on two round slots on the front body frame, and just lifts right out.

The wrench is for loosening the metal hose to the transmission cooler, which is part of the rad.

This was the first real MB repair I've done, and it took me about two hours total. Removed the old one in about 1 1/2 hours...was so tickled that I got that far in such a short period of time that I celebrated with a beer and left the remainder of the work for the next day. Installed the new one, added coolant, and had the engine fired up within a 1/2 hour that evening.

You'll be surprised at how easy it is to do!

Go for it!
__________________
2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle
2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car
2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver
2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 01-21-2002, 12:06 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 758
After rereading Chris's post

Greetings All,

After reading Chris's post again, I think we may be steering him in the wrong direction. As he has posted that the green coolant is coming out of the end of his top radiator hose. If this is really the case, then his hose has broken down internally and is seeping coolant out of the thread ends. I've had this problem in the past, and generally a new hose fixes the leak.


Charles
__________________
"Tell me and I will listen, Teach me and I will learn, Show me and I will accomplish, Involve me and I will succeed."
'84 300SD 256,000 Gold on Brown (Mileage Award)
'86 300E 246,000 Blue on Tan
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 01-21-2002, 04:27 PM
G-Benz's Avatar
Razorback Soccer Dad
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Dallas/Fort-Worth
Posts: 5,711
I picked up on that too...AFTER I made the first post...

The thing is, the original radiator WILL fail eventually...pressurized systems have a knack of initiating failures at their weakest component...which is the radiator.

Someone did post a thread earlier about repairing the core in the same place, but for all of the trouble, I would go ahead and replace the old rad anyway.

Just my 2 cents worth...
__________________
2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle
2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car
2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver
2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 01-21-2002, 04:35 PM
Chris17H
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Hey Thanks everyone for your help, first an inexpensiveway i'll just replace the hose, then once more damage occurs i will eventually do the whole radiator.

Thanks again
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 01-21-2002, 07:15 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 758
Sorry we didn't pick up on it sooner

Greetings Chris,

Sorry we didn't pick up on what you were saying sooner. We all, at least those of us with the 300E series automatically think broken radiator neck when you start talking leak in that area. I believe mine to still be the original in my '86 300E and still no hint of breakage. I actually think a lot of breakage occurs when folks use the neck as a leaning spot when removing the air cleaner housing. Seeing as I do my own maintenance, I understand that weak point and avoid using it for such purposes. I wouldn't change the core either, chances are if you take care it will most likely last another five or more years.

Charles
__________________
"Tell me and I will listen, Teach me and I will learn, Show me and I will accomplish, Involve me and I will succeed."
'84 300SD 256,000 Gold on Brown (Mileage Award)
'86 300E 246,000 Blue on Tan
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 01-22-2002, 09:17 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 962
I think the debate about conservative vs. definitive repair could go on forever. I usually like to try the least-expensive fix first myself, but I think when it comes to our cooling systems, this is probably NOT the right approach. There are a few things I know which can fry an MB engine: running it out of oil or severely overheating it. We have oil pressure gauges and low-oil lights for the former. However, a radiator neck blowing off while you're tooling down I-80 at 80 mph can EASILY fry your engine before your engine temp gauge clues you in (remembering that it is registering COOLANT temperature, and if you ain't got coolant, it's registering air temp.)

Mine blew last summer in the driveway, fortunately; when it blew, it BLEW and I lost a ton of coolant VERY VERY fast.
__________________
Steve
'93 400E
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 01-23-2002, 01:00 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 758
Fix what's wrong, not anticipated failure

Greetings 400E,

The original post was misread by several of us, but if you reread it, the problem is a deteriorating upper radiator hose not his radiator neck. There is no need to change out the radiator if it has no signs of leakage and no apparent stress cracks.

Charles
__________________
"Tell me and I will listen, Teach me and I will learn, Show me and I will accomplish, Involve me and I will succeed."
'84 300SD 256,000 Gold on Brown (Mileage Award)
'86 300E 246,000 Blue on Tan
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:43 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2011 Pelican Parts - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page