Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-15-2002, 03:42 PM
Chris17H
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Unhappy Radiator Leak

Hey i was out admiring my MB engine and recalled that the mechanic said i had a radiator leak so i searched around for it and i came across a pipe/rubber tube connecting to the top of it, and i could see a little bit of green coolent coming out. Should i replace the tube, grease the endings, or take it in and say i found it?

Thanks for your advice ahead of time
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-15-2002, 03:54 PM
G-Benz's Avatar
Razorback Soccer Dad
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Dallas/Fort-Worth
Posts: 5,711
Is your radiator original?

On the 300E models, the original OEM radiators over time would crack at the plastic inlet neck (where the rubber hose from the coolant pump meets the radiator).

It may be time for a new radiator!

New OEM ones go for about $300 and is a DIY job that can be performed in an evening. The new ones have a reinforced metal sleeve that prevents future failures in that area!

Check the hose for a loose clamp or other signs of hose deterioration first...otherwise, the cracked neck is probably what has occurred...
__________________
2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle
2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car
2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver
2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-15-2002, 06:24 PM
Chris17H
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Nooooo, i was afraid of that, i knew that was it i just didn't want to belive it....ahh there goes more money meant for performance parts ....Hey do you know if there are any aluminum radiators for the 300E to keep down the weight??

Thanks for your input
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-15-2002, 07:09 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,562
my impression is that the OEM MB 300e rads are very very lightweight already

although...if you can find some way to reduce 500lbs or more from the car while maintaining its integrity- then maybe it will feel a slight tinge quicker?


-fad
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-15-2002, 09:30 PM
Ali Al-Chalabi's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 1,837
I agree that you will need a new radiator, however, I couldn't help but notice that you said you saw green coolant leaking.

The green stuff is not the recommended MB coolant and may not contain the proper neutral ph balance for your car's cooling system. After you change the coolant, be sure to go with the proper orange MB coolant.
__________________
Ali Al-Chalabi

2001 CLK55
1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel
2002 Harley-Davidson Fatboy
Merlin Extralight w/ Campy Record
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-16-2002, 12:40 PM
mplafleur's Avatar
User Friendly
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Lathrup Village, Michigan
Posts: 2,939
I cannot, cannot, cannot, cannot believe that anything other than MB coolant is in anyway harmful to the cooling systems components.

BTW... when I bought my current MB, it was maintained by a dealership in Atlanta. I had a coolant leak on the side of the radiator, where aluminum meets plastic, and it was leaking green.
__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-16-2002, 02:50 PM
G-Benz's Avatar
Razorback Soccer Dad
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Dallas/Fort-Worth
Posts: 5,711
Let's just deal with the radiator problem, okay?

Otherwise this will turn into just another pink vs green, dino vs synthetic, Zaino vs Zymol thread!

But use MB coolant anyway!!!
__________________
2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle
2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car
2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver
2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-16-2002, 02:52 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Yorkshire England
Posts: 70
As an aside, I bought 4.5 litres of coolant yesterday from my local M-B dealer in London, and the concentrate was blue!
My original ( 2 years old) is orange/yellow so I queried the colour.

The parts guy told me that all the coolant coming out of M-B in Germany now was blue (may go greener when mixed with 50-50 water, but it's a real deep blue now).

Each 1.5 litre bottle part number is A000 989 08 25.
Hope this helps

Bazzman
Surrey England
W124 E200 Wagon 94 103,000 miles.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-17-2002, 12:58 AM
renok7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Montréal
Posts: 95
I have the green coolant but I have my mechanic check the PH at oil change. As long as it is within MB specs. I don't change it.
__________________
Reno

'93 300E 4Matic
'98 Nissan Altima
'00 Yamaha Road Star Silverado
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-17-2002, 11:28 AM
mplafleur's Avatar
User Friendly
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Lathrup Village, Michigan
Posts: 2,939
That's an easy test. What is the spec?
__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-17-2002, 12:32 PM
renok7's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Montréal
Posts: 95
Don't know the exact PH spec. My mechanic has test strips that he dips in the coolant. The color scale and MB requirements are on the side of the plastic strip container. Quick & easy, he doesn't charge me anything for this. You can probably pick-up a kit at your dealer.
__________________
Reno

'93 300E 4Matic
'98 Nissan Altima
'00 Yamaha Road Star Silverado
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-20-2002, 02:21 PM
Chris17H
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Hey one more question, G-Benz you mentioned it was a DIY job, but i went and talked to my dad and he said something about the radiator compression and that we don't have the right stuff to do it. For some reason i think he dosn't know what hes talking about, so if someone could clarify this that be great.

Thank All for helping
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-20-2002, 05:03 PM
Mattman
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
I took my 560SEL in to get the top tank replaced but upon inspection the core was in need of replacement so they fitted a new radiator. Normally I would do this myself as it's not a hard job. No special tools are needed, the shop that performed this work took a total of 2 hours to remove, replace, refill and test etc. My top tank started leaking around the little return hose at the top of the radiator. This hose runs back to the tank with the radiator cap on it. I removed the hose from the radiator end and the plastic stem that it slides over had disintergrated. I had about 6mm left so I put the hose back on as far down as I could and that stopped the leak in the short term until I could get it fixed. Here is a link to a write up in the DIY section here.

http://www.a-p-group.com/ashman/radiator.html

Matt.

Last edited by Mattman; 01-20-2002 at 05:14 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-20-2002, 05:39 PM
Chris17H
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
I saw that in the DIY section of this site and i never saw him use any special tools for compression, so i'll prolly just do it myself.

Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-20-2002, 10:29 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 758
Easy Fix and it's less than $4.00

Greetings Chris,

Seems like you have a forming crack in your radiator neck and unless it is severe I think I'd opt to get the most miles out of the current radiator I already have. Besides the $300 you don't want to spend on the new cooler, JB weld will fix your problem most likely for years to come. I've used this great goo epoxy on everything from metal to waste water holding tanks and everything I've used it on is still in operation today. Unless you just like spending money on engineered defects, I'd go with the JB Weld and correct the problem instead of buying another that will fail the same way.

Charles
__________________
"Tell me and I will listen, Teach me and I will learn, Show me and I will accomplish, Involve me and I will succeed."
'84 300SD 256,000 Gold on Brown (Mileage Award)
'86 300E 246,000 Blue on Tan
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:12 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2011 Pelican Parts - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page