That ICM should be there tomorrow/saturday.

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http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...-RESIZED-1.jpg
1991 300E - 212K and rising fast...

Sweet. We'll see if that gives me any new information.

While the mix unit was out I checked any/all vac lines that were now accessible. A couple of rubber connectors had super-tiny leaks (just a couple of psi over 30secs). Replaced all of those, but didn't find anything that would cause this kind of condition.

Then it was into my 107 to start pulling the dash to get to the wiper linkage.

PS: Love the avatar, John. Not sure if it makes me trust your advice more or less though. Jeremy only ever had 1 tool . lol

__________________
Currently:
1972 350SL Euro 4spd
1973 BMW R75/5
1981 BMW R80GS
1995 FZJ80 with OM606 Conversion In Progress

ICM got here today (Thanks John!) and I went out to swap that out, but I had reinstall my clean & leak free mix assembly first.

Before trying the ICM, I tried to fire it up with the w/ said assembly installed. Still wouldn't hold an idle w/o throttle held in. No surprise there. The surprise was when I jumped out of the car to keep the throttle open under the hood and got a huge fire-ball out of the intake when I rev-ed it. Probably just left over carb cleaner from the clean-up, but where did it get spark?

Some singed arm-hair later, I was looking over the FD for leaks etc after the re-install and saw that the stupid little hard-rubber "L" hose that goes from the middle valve cover to the intake was in rough shape. (See pics below) I replaced it w/ rubber hose and %$@* if the car didn't start & hold an idle. There was my vacuum leak.

I was sure that thing was just a breather & shouldn't cause a loss of vacuum?? Anyone have any idea if that signals any other kind of problem??

So I finally swapped the ICM out (which only has 3 connectors to the 4 on mine). Car ran exactly the same, so I'm not sure what the 4th hook-up is for.

The idle is still rough & I'm back to having it run GREAT when you depress the air flow plate a hair. Time to tune it? Where should I look/adjust first??

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Currently:
1972 350SL Euro 4spd
1973 BMW R75/5
1981 BMW R80GS
1995 FZJ80 with OM606 Conversion In Progress

Goodjob, I had a feeling it was something basic.

That hose is still vacuum since it goes into the intake manifold. A crack will let unmetered air go in from the other crankcase vent hose.

Now that you are back to normal, go in and change the duty cycle back to 50% since it will have been out of whack, and if you touched the EHA valve or fuel distributor, go back and reverse those now too.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Hey ps2cho,

Runs but is running very lean. Started a new thread to deal with this new condition here:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/298567-duty-cycle-99%25-m103.html#post2713912

Check it out & give me some advise. Thanks!

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Currently:
1972 350SL Euro 4spd
1973 BMW R75/5
1981 BMW R80GS
1995 FZJ80 with OM606 Conversion In Progress

EHA how to set the Idle screw on a mb300e not getting fuel out of the fd to the injectors fuel everywhere else please help
Greg

Could be a clogged FD. Check everything physical before you start monkeying with settings.

Have you run fuel pressure tests on the upper & lower chambers of the FD? Have you checked the micro filter where the main fuel line goes into the FD? Have you checked the EHA for proper voltage etc?

Do some searches on the forum and if that doesn't get you enough info, then start your own thread to make sure you're getting answers to your specific problem.

__________________
Currently:
1972 350SL Euro 4spd
1973 BMW R75/5
1981 BMW R80GS
1995 FZJ80 with OM606 Conversion In Progress

After more testing and much more frustration, I have now replaced the ECM with a warrantied used one (no change) and a new O2 sensor (nearly no change).

I still am running at 99% Lean (.10v) after warm up. With the new O2 sensor it seems to run at pretty good DC for a couple minutes after warm-up, oscillating from 5.5-6.5v give or take for maybe 2min (temp is around 70deg C at this point), then it drops to the .10v when it reaches around 80deg.

The car still runs PERFECTLY if you nudge the AF Plate down a couple on millimeters with your finger.

Any new suggestions or info? I'm a couple of weeks away from a burial at sea at this point...

__________________
Currently:
1972 350SL Euro 4spd
1973 BMW R75/5
1981 BMW R80GS
1995 FZJ80 with OM606 Conversion In Progress

A month later & still stuck on this one.

Any ideas that are totally out of the box? Bad EGR? Bad gas? New O2 sensor is non-functional? Demon-possessed engine? Anyone know a good exorcist?

Seriously, I need this car fixed or sold... Looks like '72 350SL will become the daily driver.

__________________
Currently:
1972 350SL Euro 4spd
1973 BMW R75/5
1981 BMW R80GS
1995 FZJ80 with OM606 Conversion In Progress

If you don't have a meter, Sears sells one for $20.00 to do the idle adjustment. Before I got that I was doing it blindly and got to a point where my car wouldn't start, a point where it would idle but then die on acceleration, rough idling, and finally the sweet spot where it has been ever since. It sometimes take the car to react and respond correctly after the adjustment so I would turn it off and start it again to let it settle in. Of course, all after I warmed it up and got it out of the closed loop program. A 3/8th turn can do a lot after you get it within the sweet spot.

Hey sptt,

Are you talking about adjusting the Lamda tower? What kind of meter did you get from Sears? Thanks.

__________________
Currently:
1972 350SL Euro 4spd
1973 BMW R75/5
1981 BMW R80GS
1995 FZJ80 with OM606 Conversion In Progress