Need Estimates for Suspension Work - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

big dog 2 · #16 05-19-2011, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ivanerrol

You betcha life it did. - Especially the disappearance of squeak going over speed humps.

Thanks for the information!

Guess I will order some!

Cal Learner · #17 05-19-2011, 09:13 AM

I generally share the "if it aint broke, don't fix it" logic, and I've followed that advice for a lot of years on this car, but my plan here is to restore (that's the operative word, restore) the vehicle after 23 years to like-new condition for the next 23 years.

It's entirely possible that none of the suspension components is broken, but it's a sure bet that they are all worn, and that's what the restoration project aims to correct. I may end up doing some of the work myself, but if not, it will be done by my trusted indy.

@mercy485, the price you quoted for front-end work was at a shop, not DIY? That couldn't have included struts along with everything else, did it? You're figuring the rear-end will be more expensive than the front? Do others agree that the rear suspension/subframe is more expensive to R&R than the front?

It looks like the general consensus for total rebuild, front and rear, with OE parts at a shop, is in the range of $2,500 - $3,500. If the work is all done at the same time, roughly how many labor hours should that be based on? Thanks for your many interesting responses.

lorainfurniture · #18 05-19-2011, 10:27 AM

I would do it in stages, like the front first, then rear. Shocks and springs somewhere in the middle. you are going to want to change flex discs and carrier bearing also.

I did my front end first, then shocks/springs. Now Im at the rear subframe. You would not want to overwhelm yourself with a complete overhaul like that.

Yak · #19 05-19-2011, 06:17 PM

The other benefit of doing it in stages vice a mass swap out is troubleshooting and fault diagnosis. If everything changes at once, then you're not sure what may be causing a [potential] problem.

The downside of the gradual approach is that improvement comes in steps and may be hard to notice and it makes repeat trips to the shop.

#20 05-19-2011, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yak

The other benefit of doing it in stages vice a mass swap out is troubleshooting and fault diagnosis. If everything changes at once, then you're not sure what may be causing a [potential] problem.

The downside of the gradual approach is that improvement comes in steps and may be hard to notice and it makes repeat trips to the shop.

Doing it in "steps" will also require more total time than doing it all at once.

JohnM. · #21 05-19-2011, 08:38 PM

Doing it all at once is smart, when you can afford to do so. This will mean all the rubber bits on the car are ready to go for another 300K. You will just have to worry about drivetrain maintenance at that point. Replacing one control arm here, one rear link there, will drive you crazy at your mileage. Plus you usually need an alignment after any bushing/arm work.

I would definitely go with Bilstein HD's on all four corners if you have not already replaced the shocks/struts.

Looks like you got most of the pieces. But here are a few things to watch out for.

Rear Subframe mounts (there are four total)
Differential mounts (two)
Rear sway bar bushings/links

I would also buy an "arm kit" for the rear rather than the individual bushings for each arm. This way your mechanic is not going to be wasting time (and your $$) pressing old bushings out and new ones in, this is the biggest time consumer. If he can just rip out all the old arms and bolt all the new arms into place, that will be hours saved.

Wheel bearings are a good idea and easy up front. The rear bearings might eat up a huge chunk of time. If they aren't making any rumbling noise at all, I'd say leave the rears alone for now. It's another thing that can add 4-5 hours (or more) to your bill.

You will have a brand new driving car at the end of it. But since you've owned it from new, you already know how nice it's going to be.

mercy485 · #22 05-19-2011, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cal Learner

I generally share the "if it aint broke, don't fix it" logic, and I've followed that advice for a lot of years on this car, but my plan here is to restore (that's the operative word, restore) the vehicle after 23 years to like-new condition for the next 23 years.

It's entirely possible that none of the suspension components is broken, but it's a sure bet that they are all worn, and that's what the restoration project aims to correct. I may end up doing some of the work myself, but if not, it will be done by my trusted indy.

@mercy485, the price you quoted for front-end work was at a shop, not DIY? That couldn't have included struts along with everything else, did it? You're figuring the rear-end will be more expensive than the front? Do others agree that the rear suspension/subframe is more expensive to R&R than the front?

It looks like the general consensus for total rebuild, front and rear, with OE parts at a shop, is in the range of $2,500 - $3,500. If the work is all done at the same time, roughly how many labor hours should that be based on? Thanks for your many interesting responses.

I did as much as I could, the struts were not to bad, take it one step at a time as your budget allows, there is no way I could afford a $3500 up front cost unless I used my whole tax refund and if I did I would probably be sleeping in the dog house

Mine has 210K on it and going strong Tranny started to act a little silly but I put some Lucas in it and it has not returned as with the slight leak that stopped too. My mechanic told me not to change the fluid but I did anyway and glad I did it was nasty!

The most expensive piece really is going to be the body work, pretty much a whole re-spray and a lot of PDR for the dings. Who ever had it must of camped out in a Walmart lot!

Cal Learner · #23 05-20-2011, 09:39 AM

Thanks, all. JohnM, I appreciate the cautions you mentioned. I had come to the same conclusion re: rear arms vs. only bushings, for the same labor-intensive reason. As in any restoration, the idea is to return the vehicle to like-new condition, so a different logic applies than if I were simply trying to track down and fix a problem. I've kept the car in immaculate condition inside and out (the floor carpets have never been stepped on--floor mats from new), no kids, no pets, no smokers, washed weekly, waxed quarterly, vinyl protective treatments quarterly, always garaged, and so on.

I'm not independently wealthy and I recognize that the 124 isn't prized as a collector car, so of course cost will enter into it at some point, but the suspension is one place I intend to spend what's needed to bring it back to assembly line condition. Smaller amounts are budgeted for such things as brake and fuel line replacements, vac lines, a new throttle body and linkage. Inside, refinishing all the wood trim (still looks very presentable, but the urethane finish has surface scratches and cracks), and reupholstering selected panels on the seats that have been exposed to the sunlight. The big expense, I expect, will be a complete A/C renovation, including evaporator, all vent pods and compressor. Then, there are the smaller bits and pieces--For the last 6-7 years, I've been accumulating selected parts that I judged most likely to deteriorate or most likely to be discontinued from MB, and these have been stored in several gigantic Rubbermade bins with snap lids, kept inside the house. Those are my "restoration bins." All told, about $4,000 of OE Mercedes parts, still in original packaging, waiting for my eventual resto project. That's what I'm now putting the budget together for, probably to take place in early 2012, when the car will just turn 24. So that's my story. Thanks for contributing your ideas.

Ferdman · #24 05-20-2011, 10:03 AM

Cal, let me caution you about Bilstein HD struts. I installed them on our 1995 E320 and hated the harsh ride so much that I replaced them with Bilstein Comfort struts within 3 days. The original struts/shocks were Comforts so if you want to return to the original ride/handling quality install Comforts.

#25 05-20-2011, 12:38 PM

I think it depends on the car and type of driving. I have HDs on both my W123s and like them (I mostly drive on decent roads).

RANDY P · #26 05-21-2011, 01:00 AM

If you haven't been abusing the car and it's led an easy life you are better served just start with changing the shocks and the easy to access / cheap stuff - even then visually verify the condition of things.

Get the car evaluated from a dedicated suspension shop (without telling them your plans of course) and if they think the vehicle is OK (as in it will hold an alignment) then get an alignment done and enjoy the car.

The car may have 225K miles but these are tanks we drive and if it hasn't been abused save the money for when it really starts going downhill or if you get some sort of exceptional pricing from a trusted mechanic.

At $2500 (which is entirely possible) I'd take your damn sweet time waiting until the car really needed it- you can get price anytime you want, it's not like an exceptional deal.

Save the money it doesn't sound like your car really needs anything but shocks and a few minor things.

PS- my W202 just got it's lower control arm bushings done- you could see the rears were wasted. Car has 158K on it, and so far has ONLY had those bushings done and shocks at 140K. Car is still tight as a drum, and I'm lowered on 17" low profile wheels and I am abusive.

rjp

Hirnbeiss · #27 05-22-2011, 08:18 AM

I would do the following first, right before a new set of tires so you can get it aligned first:
lower control arms (includes bushings and ball joints)
tie rod ends
front wheel bearings
rear wheel linkages (if still in budget)

The rest you could do later, or DIY. Your mechanic can give you a better idea too of what can wait.

Crazy_Nate · #28 05-22-2011, 10:28 AM

Good thread...very good timing.

I've been thinking about this one for a bit of time now. I need sway bar bushings and new struts (left is definitely leaking and the right may be at this point).

I've been pondering Sachs (OE?) versus Comforts versus HD's. I think I may very well choose comforts (roads are a little rough around here) and have all of the other hardware replaced at that time (mounts, etc). Is it best to do both front and back at the same time if you're changing the shock type?

What about springs - I know they sag; will it make much of a difference for handling? Or is it one of those "wait until the spring breaks..." (not that I would want to have a broken spring

) Also, would these be quite easy to combine labor with parts like shocks / struts or LCAs? I figure they must...

I'm probably going to have to split my suspension work up. Not that I can't afford it...it's just difficult spending an amount of money that is on the same order of magnitude as the vehicle's cost :p I'm probably going to have to do the entire rear subframe bushing set and all of the links in the back to get it back up to par