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  #1  
Old 05-18-2011, 10:02 AM
Cal Learner's Avatar
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Need Estimates for Suspension Work

Putting together a budget for selected "restoration" work on my 23 year old 124. I've owned it since new, always serviced, and I'll keep it forever. Car runs/drives wonderful, tracks straight, with only the slightest clunks going over potholes, but most everything under there is original, and that's now 208K miles.

Anyone care to offer estimates on how much I should budget for having both front and rear suspensions/subframes, et al. rebuilt by my MB Master Tech indy? (At $85 per hour, his labor rates are relatively affordable.) I'm thinking all tie rods, sway bar ends, steering damper, idler arm bushings, LCA bushings, ball joints, subframe rubber, perhaps also wheel bearings and struts. Anything else? As always, I'll insist on OE/OEM parts.

Thanks for your thoughts.

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  #2  
Old 05-18-2011, 10:12 AM
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2500...
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  #3  
Old 05-18-2011, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal Learner View Post
....Car runs/drives wonderful, tracks straight, with only the slightest clunks going over potholes.....

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
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  #4  
Old 05-18-2011, 12:18 PM
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Ive dropped about 1k on my rear subframe so far, but that was replacing EVERYTHING. Including brakes, rotors, parking brake cables, bearings etc... Not including springs/struts.

Its still in my garage, ready to be installed.

I dont remember the front as that was done a few years ago.
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  #5  
Old 05-18-2011, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
2500...
With aftermarket parts, including labor, Id say thats accurate. OEM parts + a "few while im there" additions, 3-3500..

You would have a "new" car at that point.
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  #6  
Old 05-18-2011, 12:45 PM
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I wouldn't bother personally.

Do the front sway bar bushings if you want a dramatic difference in feel! Its super easy to do. Just jack up front of the car, unbolt sway bar each side (turn wheel if tires get in way) and use a rubber mallet to bash the old and new bushings in place. It makes a huge difference!
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  #7  
Old 05-18-2011, 01:57 PM
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If you can't do the work yourself, it may not be the best choice to drive an older W124. Unless it's a 500, you're always only one fender bender away from it being totalled.
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  #8  
Old 05-18-2011, 02:25 PM
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Not sure how many miles are on your car; that will make a difference in what you need. My '88 daily driver has 297k on it and I think its relatively well maintained and not beaten. Last weekend I replaced both lower outer control arm bushings (shot big time). I took the opportunity to inspect everything else because so much had to be removed. In preparation I ordered the entire set of links and bushings from Autohauz and when all was said and done, I didn't need anything other than the two outer bushings (left and right). Just returned the rest to Autohauz and will use the money toward new shocks and struts. So instead of a full suspension rebuild, my rear suspension (and I have put owned it for 195k of the total mileage and it has been parked outside in NY winters for 10 years) only needed outer bushings. I would agree with the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" mentality.

The front suspension needed ball joints so I replaced them and the control arm bushings at the same time. Just because they were easy, I replaced the sway bar bushings too. Just had an alignment today and the car is like it was when I got it ten years ago.

Have a comprehensive inspection done before doing the job and don't tell your Indy you had planned for the worst. If all you need is what I replaced, you might be looking at $600-800 with an honest mechanic.
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  #9  
Old 05-18-2011, 02:37 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
2500...
Sounds about right, maybe a little higher.
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  #10  
Old 05-18-2011, 03:08 PM
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal Learner View Post
Putting together a budget for selected "restoration" work on my 23 year old 124. I've owned it since new, always serviced, and I'll keep it forever. Car runs/drives wonderful, tracks straight, with only the slightest clunks going over potholes, but most everything under there is original, and that's now 208K miles.

Anyone care to offer estimates on how much I should budget for having both front and rear suspensions/subframes, et al. rebuilt by my MB Master Tech indy? (At $85 per hour, his labor rates are relatively affordable.) I'm thinking all tie rods, sway bar ends, steering damper, idler arm bushings, LCA bushings, ball joints, subframe rubber, perhaps also wheel bearings and struts. Anything else? As always, I'll insist on OE/OEM parts.

Thanks for your thoughts.
Funny I see this post, I just had my entire front suspension rebuilt on my 88 300E down to the bearings. WOW brand new car expensive $1300, and now I have to turn my attention to the rear another $2000 but you know what its worth it to me, car is paid off and I'm not about to go into another car payment.

If its not worth it to you do what you think is best after all if your smiling after your decision that's all that matters.

I'm rebuilding the whole car pretty much, just finished up the engine bay all the interior electric bits. Now its time to finish off the rear suspension and then have the front seats re-upholstered then have the body work done.

Its my first Mercedes and darn it I'm going to make it look like it did when it was sitting on the dealer lot ready for purchase expensive yes but still cheaper than a new one!
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  #11  
Old 05-18-2011, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal Learner View Post
Putting together a budget for selected "restoration" work on my 23 year old 124. I've owned it since new, always serviced, and I'll keep it forever. Car runs/drives wonderful, tracks straight, with only the slightest clunks going over potholes, but most everything under there is original, and that's now 208K miles.

Anyone care to offer estimates on how much I should budget for having both front and rear suspensions/subframes, et al. rebuilt by my MB Master Tech indy? (At $85 per hour, his labor rates are relatively affordable.) I'm thinking all tie rods, sway bar ends, steering damper, idler arm bushings, LCA bushings, ball joints, subframe rubber, perhaps also wheel bearings and struts. Anything else? As always, I'll insist on OE/OEM parts.

Thanks for your thoughts.
Talk to your $85/hr indy, have him replace what you need special tools for and you do the rest, on an as needed basis not just because "it's time."

Since you're the original owner you know what's been maintained. Rubber ages, so maybe start there. Many of the items on your list are starightforward jobs with basic tools.
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  #12  
Old 05-19-2011, 01:43 AM
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You can do this job in stages and preserve your budget.

You can buy OEM replacement front control arms with new bushings and ball joints. Sway bar bushings are cheap.
You can rent a spring compressor.
This will make the biggest difference in the ride.

Rear bushings are also relatively cheap. You can rent the tool that changes them out.

Front struts and strut mount change out is a relatively easy DIY job so is rear stru change out.

Only do your brake rotors and pads when required.
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  #13  
Old 05-19-2011, 01:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2cho View Post
I wouldn't bother personally.

Do the front sway bar bushings if you want a dramatic difference in feel! Its super easy to do. Just jack up front of the car, unbolt sway bar each side (turn wheel if tires get in way) and use a rubber mallet to bash the old and new bushings in place. It makes a huge difference!
I did this job on a W124 only three days ago.

I didn't jack the car up as the sway bar needs to be level to get it on and off in position properly.

You can still do this job relatively easily even though its at low level.

I didn't need to bash the rubbers on and off with a rubber mallet either - they were worked on and off in place by hand. The later model rubbers have a special coating in them so don't use Vaseline or oil to work them on.
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  #14  
Old 05-19-2011, 08:16 AM
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Bushings

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivanerrol View Post
I did this job on a W124 only three days ago.

I didn't jack the car up as the sway bar needs to be level to get it on and off in position properly.

You can still do this job relatively easily even though its at low level.

I didn't need to bash the rubbers on and off with a rubber mallet either - they were worked on and off in place by hand. The later model rubbers have a special coating in them so don't use Vaseline or oil to work them on.
Did you notice a big difference in handling or feel with the new bushings?
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  #15  
Old 05-19-2011, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by big dog 2 View Post
Did you notice a big difference in handling or feel with the new bushings?
You betcha life it did. - Especially the disappearance of squeak going over speed humps.

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