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#1
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Need Estimates for Suspension Work
Putting together a budget for selected "restoration" work on my 23 year old 124. I've owned it since new, always serviced, and I'll keep it forever. Car runs/drives wonderful, tracks straight, with only the slightest clunks going over potholes, but most everything under there is original, and that's now 208K miles.
Anyone care to offer estimates on how much I should budget for having both front and rear suspensions/subframes, et al. rebuilt by my MB Master Tech indy? (At $85 per hour, his labor rates are relatively affordable.) I'm thinking all tie rods, sway bar ends, steering damper, idler arm bushings, LCA bushings, ball joints, subframe rubber, perhaps also wheel bearings and struts. Anything else? As always, I'll insist on OE/OEM parts. Thanks for your thoughts.
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1988 California version 260E (W124) Anthracite Grey/Palomino Owned since new and still going strong and smooth MBCA member Past Mercedes-Benz: 1986 190E Baby Benz 1967 230 Inherited from mom when she downsized 1959 220S Introduced me to the joys of keepin' 'em goin' There are only 10 kinds of people in the world--those who understand binary and those who don't |
#2
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2500...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#3
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Quote:
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. |
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Ive dropped about 1k on my rear subframe so far, but that was replacing EVERYTHING. Including brakes, rotors, parking brake cables, bearings etc... Not including springs/struts.
Its still in my garage, ready to be installed. I dont remember the front as that was done a few years ago.
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Eugene 10 E63 AMG 93 300te 4matic 07 BMW X3 14 Ford F-150 Fx2 |
#5
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With aftermarket parts, including labor, Id say thats accurate. OEM parts + a "few while im there" additions, 3-3500..
You would have a "new" car at that point.
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Eugene 10 E63 AMG 93 300te 4matic 07 BMW X3 14 Ford F-150 Fx2 |
#6
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I wouldn't bother personally.
Do the front sway bar bushings if you want a dramatic difference in feel! Its super easy to do. Just jack up front of the car, unbolt sway bar each side (turn wheel if tires get in way) and use a rubber mallet to bash the old and new bushings in place. It makes a huge difference!
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#7
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If you can't do the work yourself, it may not be the best choice to drive an older W124. Unless it's a 500, you're always only one fender bender away from it being totalled.
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Not sure how many miles are on your car; that will make a difference in what you need. My '88 daily driver has 297k on it and I think its relatively well maintained and not beaten. Last weekend I replaced both lower outer control arm bushings (shot big time). I took the opportunity to inspect everything else because so much had to be removed. In preparation I ordered the entire set of links and bushings from Autohauz and when all was said and done, I didn't need anything other than the two outer bushings (left and right). Just returned the rest to Autohauz and will use the money toward new shocks and struts. So instead of a full suspension rebuild, my rear suspension (and I have put owned it for 195k of the total mileage and it has been parked outside in NY winters for 10 years) only needed outer bushings. I would agree with the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" mentality.
The front suspension needed ball joints so I replaced them and the control arm bushings at the same time. Just because they were easy, I replaced the sway bar bushings too. Just had an alignment today and the car is like it was when I got it ten years ago. Have a comprehensive inspection done before doing the job and don't tell your Indy you had planned for the worst. If all you need is what I replaced, you might be looking at $600-800 with an honest mechanic.
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88 300e 89 300e 93 400e 93 500e 77 308 GTB |
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#10
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If its not worth it to you do what you think is best after all if your smiling after your decision that's all that matters. I'm rebuilding the whole car pretty much, just finished up the engine bay all the interior electric bits. Now its time to finish off the rear suspension and then have the front seats re-upholstered then have the body work done. Its my first Mercedes and darn it I'm going to make it look like it did when it was sitting on the dealer lot ready for purchase expensive yes but still cheaper than a new one! |
#11
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Since you're the original owner you know what's been maintained. Rubber ages, so maybe start there. Many of the items on your list are starightforward jobs with basic tools. |
#12
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You can do this job in stages and preserve your budget.
You can buy OEM replacement front control arms with new bushings and ball joints. Sway bar bushings are cheap. You can rent a spring compressor. This will make the biggest difference in the ride. Rear bushings are also relatively cheap. You can rent the tool that changes them out. Front struts and strut mount change out is a relatively easy DIY job so is rear stru change out. Only do your brake rotors and pads when required. |
#13
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Quote:
I didn't jack the car up as the sway bar needs to be level to get it on and off in position properly. You can still do this job relatively easily even though its at low level. I didn't need to bash the rubbers on and off with a rubber mallet either - they were worked on and off in place by hand. The later model rubbers have a special coating in them so don't use Vaseline or oil to work them on. |
#14
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Bushings
Quote:
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1989 300E 2005 Acura TL 2011 Hyundai Elantra Limited Swing hard! Take chances! |
#15
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You betcha life it did. - Especially the disappearance of squeak going over speed humps.
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