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#1
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Questions about a few mods and some parts.
Ok so I have a vacuum leak that allows air to blow through the vents while driving, even when the vents are off. I replaced my heater valve twice within a 2-3 year period because It fails often by allowing coolant through even when the valve is up. I prefer to have the cool air blowing when the vents are off, than the hot air (its hot). So here is the slight modification I did, please let me know if this is ok or if I should beware of some adverse reaction: I took out the auxillary water pump and replaced it with a brass ball valve to manually control the flow of coolant. So during the summer months I leave the valve closed, which restricts the coolant from entering the heater core, thus giving me cool/regular air while driving or with the vents on without having hot air come through the side and defrost vents. When the weather cools down I can open the valve and have the coolant enter the heater core and give me hot air while driving. Of course the climate control still functions as normal if I pres the a/c switch I will get ice cold air from ALL vents if the manual valve is closed. If it is open and I press the a/c switch I will get ice cold air from the center vents and still hot air from the defrost and sides. Let me know if not having the auxillary water pump in place will give me some adverse reaction or is this fine? Honestly, I would prefer to leave the manual valve on all the time. Since I live in the desert, I only get about 2-3 months where I would have to have the valve open for heat, but other than that I can have the cold air.
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1990 190E 3.0L |
#2
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Afaik, that pump helps watper flow to the heater at idle, something that is more important in northern Europe and near-arctic regions. If it gives you sufficent heat, and your engine temps are otherwise good, I would say you're fine.
However, if you want to move up to Master Modder, you should put in a remotely operated ball valve
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Prost! |
#3
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How do I add a remote valve?
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1990 190E 3.0L |
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