'84 190E won't start after starting/running fine
 

Hi Folks,
I just got a '84 190E with 97K on it. Really great cosmetically & runs well. It started perfect yesterday evening, I drove to the parts store then on the highway for about 10 min. Parked it. Went to move it 10 min later & no turn over, click, nothing. Battery is powering everthing fine.

Starter solenoid? ICM? How do I test?

thanks,
Clay

Did you make super sure that the gear selector is firmly in park or neutral? Try it several times to make sure.

The "no turn over" suggest the starter/solenoid.

remotemark,
Just got a call from a friend suggesting that. I'll try that when I get home.
thanks!:)

MTI,
Do I need a specific tester to check the solenoid?

This is going to be a project car. I don't drive to work or every day, so this will be a long learning curve. All my previous projects have been very basic, pre 1980, American cars.

thanks.

Testing doesn't require any special tools, just a VOM and safety precautions. You want to lift the car to get access to the starter; my preference is to put all four wheels off the ground, but you can get by by verifying several times that the car is in park;

You can test the solenoid by bypassing the ignition switch and jumpering the solenoid's power terminals with insulated cable. That should crank up the starter and spin the crank. If so, then the problem is upstream of the solenoid, like the ignition switch or the battery not putting out enough volt/amps. If not, then it's likely the solenoid.

BTW, the W201 190E is one of the last of the Mercedes passenger cars that a home mechanic can comfortably work on with basic metric hand tools. Enjoy.

MTI,
Thanks very much for the info.

hello vaclay,

I recently had to deal with the same exact problem, however my car is a 300E.
In my case, the #5 fuse in the fuse box had corrosion on it, and it caused the no crank problem. NOTE: the fuse was not burned out, but rather the corrosion on the fuse caused an open circuit situation which resulted in no crank, so check your fuses closely. Some forum members even suggest replacing all the fuses with new ones.

While researching the problem, i came across the following link, which may be of some use to you: http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm

here's a good video on voltage drop testing as well : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0THDAS1nws

If I remember correctly there's a thicker wire which runs from the battery + terminal all the way to the starter, and the starter ground is achieved by a ground strap/cable which connects the frame to the engine/bellhousing. Make sure that both of these cables are corrosion free aswell.

good luck

timmyr,
Thanks for the tip. Are all the fuses located under the hood on the drivers side? I checked all of those, they all looked new, except 2 which I replaced. Still no crank. Guess I move onto the starter solenoid.

clay

whack the starter with a rubber mallet or turn the starting gear a little. may get you running enough to isolate the starter.

Aquaticedge,
LOL! I was definitely gonna do that first. Always help diagnose starter problems in my trucks.

thanks,
Clay

hello again,

I believe that all of the fuses are located in the fuse box on the driver's side of the engine compartment .

good luck

Starting problem
 

I was told I need a new ignition switch & steering column lock assembly. Anyone have a guess on what this would cost from non-dealership, Mercedes certified mechanic?

thanks,
Clay

turn your lights on, try to start the car, if the lights dim then you are probably sending fire the solenoid.

if the lights do not dim then juice is not flowing to the solenoid and it is probably ok. look elsewhere for the problem.

you can manually engage the starter/solenoid by connecting the two leads on the starter relay. Just be careful.

Thanks Ben,
The starter & solenoid are good. I was told I needed the ingition switch & steering column lock assembly. I'm just trying to figure out what a fair price to fix is, since I don't currently have all the tools I need.

thanks,
Clay