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  #1  
Old 01-19-2002, 12:27 AM
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Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 179
1994 C280 oil leak

Well, I've read through the archives and it seems that I keep seeing head gasket a lot.

Most of those messages related to the E-series. But, I figured the straight-six in the C280 was closely related to the E300 2.8 and 3.0.

So, I thought I would give the engine bay a cleaning to narrow down the search for the problem, what's the best way to clean the engine? Can I use a car wash sprayer at it's low setting (without squeezing the trigger)? Can I use the soap or just water?

Once clean, where would I mostly likely see the oil?

This past summer, I had a problem with the car overheating while at idle. Turns out the water pump needed to be replaced. No more coolant leakage.

However, recently, past 3-4 months, while at idle for a few minutes I can "smell" something. Oil I suppose, not sure. But it's noticable.

I do have some spots in the garage underneath the car, too.

Car has 128k miles. I've owned it since 44k miles and have only had the water pump, windshield and battery replaced...well, the tires have been replaced a couple of times.

thanks.

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  #2  
Old 01-19-2002, 08:21 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Westchester Co. , New York
Posts: 27
You have to be pretty careful about washing those engines, they are very prone to having Engine Electrical Problems after washing them, especially if water gets where it shouldn't.
If you want to wash the engine don't spray any water on the top, just use a spray on cleaner and wip off. As far as washing the side, you could use any type of degreaser and just hose it off.
If it is the head gasket, it will be coming from the front timing cover gasket. The place to look would be on the passengers side of the engine, in front of the exhaust manifold, where the head and front timing cover meet. That's where it usually leaks from, and leaks down the side of the block and makes a mess.
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  #3  
Old 01-19-2002, 08:43 AM
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Electrons can do anything
 
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Location: Houston, Texas
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On engines that have serious gunk my proceedure is as follows;

Coat everything with a good degreaser and let soak for 10 minutes. Using high pressure water spray the really bad places and hit them hard and close. The shear pressure and the velocity of the water will knock a goog majority of the stuff off. Hit things from all different angles to get it all off. Jack the car up as high in the air as possible and spray from the bottom side.

Never ever spray directly at any of the following components;

1. Electrical connectors of any type.
2. Any electrical component.
3. Ignition wires, spark plugs and distributor cap.
4. Fluid reservoirs such as brake, power steering, hydraulic oil etc.

Repeat as necessary to get a sparkling clean engine.

If the engine does not start, you should make sure there is no moisture or water on the ignition wires and on the inside of the distributor.
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I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave

78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
89 560sl - 78k
91 420sel - 205k
91 560sel - 85k
94 GMC Suburban - 90k
97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k
00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k
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  #4  
Old 01-30-2002, 10:44 AM
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Location: NW Arkansas
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Well, the next dry day we get here, I'm gonna clean the engine. I have to do it before Friday.

I'm taking the car in for an oil change and want them to have a good look at it with a clean engine so they can better diagnose the problem.

I've heard the old "while there in there" working on the head gasket, might as well do the valve guide seals???

Any thoughts on that?

What about timing chain?

Anything else? I don't want to have to go back in there for another 100k-150k miles if possible.
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  #5  
Old 01-30-2002, 12:14 PM
dpetryk's Avatar
Electrons can do anything
 
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If I was me, I would do it all. But then again I do all my own work. Certainly do the guide seals, they are cheap. I cant speak about the chain on that model.But it would probably be worth doing.
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I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave

78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
89 560sl - 78k
91 420sel - 205k
91 560sel - 85k
94 GMC Suburban - 90k
97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k
00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k
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  #6  
Old 01-30-2002, 05:04 PM
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Don't worry about the timing chain on this motor... as long as you've had regular oil changes, it should be fine.
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Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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  #7  
Old 02-01-2002, 06:13 PM
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Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 179
Well, some good news. I cleaned the engine up real good, drove the the shop and had the oil changed.

They said the leak was coming from the middle (I think) timing chain seal...I guess there is an upper, middle, and lower?

Anyway, there's a seal he called horseshoe seal that has been know to leak.

Rest of the engine is bone dry (-:

But, when I clean it, I may have clean it too well (if that's possible) because I'm now hearing a little bit of a chirping from the belt I think.

So, if they get in there to do the Timing Chain seal, should they be looking at anything else?

Thanks for all the help guys.
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  #8  
Old 02-01-2002, 09:29 PM
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Location: Evansville WI
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I think what he means is the front cylinder head cover lip seal. This is common on both the 103 and 104 motors. It's the cover on the front of the cylinder head, like a "C" shaped seal where this front cover mates to the timing chain cover itself. The only problem, especially on the 104 motor is determining for sure if it's the lip seal or the front of the head gasket. The best advice I can give is to have the lip seal done, and while the valve cover is off to do this, ask them to retorque the 3 or 4 small bolts at the front of the head. They're techically considered head bolts, but they're not like the 14 or so large bolts, they're much smaller and near the front of the head. Retorquing these bolts may help cure an external 104 engine oil leak, worth a try anyways. 103 engines don't have these smaller bolts, and also 103 engines are more noted for oil mixing into the coolant when the head gasket fails, the 104 is more known for external oil leaks when the head gasket fails, usually on the right side, either up near the cylinder head front cover or on the right rear corner.
Gilly
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  #9  
Old 02-02-2002, 06:30 AM
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Gilly,

I have never seen any "smaller" head bolts on a 104 engine. Are they only found on early 104s?

Vin
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  #10  
Old 02-02-2002, 09:44 AM
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Location: Evansville WI
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I just went through my service CD and they're not on a 104, sorry for the confusion. I must be thinking of the 111 motor, which is alot like the 104 motor except it has no front cylinder head cover, it must have the bolts that can be retorqued if the front part of the head gasket is leaking.
Gilly
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  #11  
Old 05-23-2002, 03:33 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: minnesota
Posts: 16
1997 c280 head gasket

I got my 1997 c280 in january with 51,000 miles on it. a beautiful
white color, everything work great even got 28 to the gallon. except after reading the forum I got curious about my car. So I decided to change my own oil, took off the undercarrige and ther it is oil everywhere. everything as discribed in the forum. I took it to the dealer (feldmann import) and the machanic confirm it as head gasket leak. The svc manager said he will contact mb rep.
if they will replace the gasket. the next day the svc manager call me that they will replace the gasket free of charge as good will.


john

1997 c280 55,000
1995 accord 120,000
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  #12  
Old 05-23-2002, 09:10 PM
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Location: Soperton, Ga. USA
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way to go pmp

I have been putting the E320 cylinder head back on and I mean to tell that ya'll that putting that top timing chain cover on without disrupting the "C" shaped seal is a pita. I did get the head bolted on and all that is left is to get the intake manifold bolted up and everything connected and it should be good to go. I have had a few choice words for the engineer that designed that top timing chain cover arrangement. The design is such that unless it is sealed up real good it will leak.

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