Installed Rebuilt Throttle Actuator 124 3.2 but it won't work
 

Got it from BBA-Reman. The instructions say to warm up the car, shut it off, and then turn the ignition to 1 (on). It says the ETA will buzz, which it does, and then it will click, which it doesn't do - just continues to buzz. Supposed to wait for silence and then drive the car for half hour. It won't stop buzzing though and the car won't drive because it won't go over about 1500 rpm and it has not power.

Anyone have any experience with this or any suggestions?

Thanks,

Bob

Did the car behave the same way before replacing the throttle actuator?

No. Now it will hold a pretty even idle, but that's it. Nothing over 1500 or so and no power. Diagnostics shows that the idle switch remains closed even when on the throttle.

How long have you let it buzz?

I've got a similar problem with my M104 320ce. But mine wont even start, it wants to but just wont catch. Ive cleaned the throttle, done the injectors and removed and refitted the mainfold because the crancase ventilation hose would not come off. all has gone back as it should and all the systems appear ok (fuel pumps, injector pulse etc) but this peice of crap just wont go. I pulled off the throttle body as I was getting the occaisional rough idle and stall. Whats this avout the throttle actuator buzzing?????

It buzzes when it is resynchronizing itself, it is the electric motor stepping the throttle plate through it's range of motion, you can actually watch this happening by looking through the throttle bore.

Have you inspected your engine harness wiring?

It would never stop buzzing. I let it go for over half hour. Now the car won't start. It catches but won't stay running long enough to warm it up to put it through the resynch process. Harness has been replaced.

The new throttle actuator may be the problem, but more likely the E-Gas control unit is no good. The common problem seems to be the 12 volt circuit inside the actuator shorts to the 5 volt circuit, damaging the control unit.

Do you know where the e-gas module is located on a 93 300e?

It's behind the carpet/kick-panel in the front passenger footwell.

I found and removed the e-gas module. I opened it up for inspection but couldn't see anything wrong. Should I be able to see something burned or is there some other way to figure out if it's bad? Is there some common failure I can fix?

Replaced the e-gas module with what is supposed to be a known good one. Still not syncing. So here's the summary: rebuilt actuator; new MAS; e-gas computer replaced; wiring harness has been replaced; new coils and connectors to plugs; and rebuilt actuator will not sync.

Any suggestions?

I'll go you halves in a gallon of gas and some matches!

Any resolution on this? I have the same issue with my E420. I know my actuator is good. Had it tested by two companies and it's good. I changed my MAF and it's worse with the new one. Will start and immediately stall. With the old MAF, just like yours. Idles, stalls or revs drop to nothing at 1500. I have another long thread on a year quest to find fix. Not found yet...