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  #16  
Old 01-23-2002, 12:42 PM
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Yes You got the OE quality replacement wires!!

LIKE Steve said, you must have a license to "CUT HAIR" but anybody can work on cars in the USA!!

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  #17  
Old 11-29-2006, 11:28 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Coos Bay Oregon
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Ignitor2 + Spark Plug Wire Question

OK, here goes.

I just got a new Pertronix Ignitor2 iggy set (91885) to replace my points that wear out frequently and cause my tach to jump, among other undesirable things.

My 73 SL has nearly new plug wires that appear to be the copper core kind. They say "Bosch Opti-layer Copper Core Ultra Premium." I read in other threads that there may be associated issues with harmonics that could damage the Ignitor2 unless I use non-copper core wires. These ohm out at about 1.3K ohms so I assume they have a resistor in the boot somewhere and that they ARE copper core kind. My stock coil shows about 0.3 ohms so I believe I need to keep the resistors in the circuit or do a new coil with internal R.

Do I need to replace the wire set or can I replace the boot ends or what.

I'm a bit confused and don't want to wreck my new Pertronix system before I get it running.

Please sound off. I'll call Pertronix tomorrow, but would appreciate any feedback. This group has so much knowledge!

Scott


Quote:
Originally Posted by stevebfl View Post
The copper core wires never "wear" out. They often get destroyed by heat or chemicals. The TVRS carbon core wire used in US style wiring is responsible for the common conception that replacing wires is a maintenance item. The european style of wires never need wholesale replacement; only the necessary repairs. Occasionally I will replace all the ends where I have had more than one fail. They are easily seen on a scope when bad.

The part that goes bad is the resistor end that goes on the plug. These are easily replaced and the Beru ends are easily available. The job is cheap and easy.

My trick for replacing the ends is designed to save the wire. The wire has a metal "male" screw made to it (which is also available separately to repair those done in haste) which screws into the "female" connection inside the plug wire end.

I slit the rubber boot on the end and peel it back. this uncovers a white ceramic insulator. I wrap it with a rag and squeeze it with strong pliers/visegrips till it fractures. Pick away the pieces (watch they are sharp) and you will see the metal connection made to the wire. This can now be grabbed and the end turned from it. If you turn the wire from outside the boot the wire will probably break from the metal end instead of unscrewing properly.

Since the end is being thrown away a little destruction can save having the wire end ruined. By doing this instead of wholesale wire replacement one saves money, restores the original ends, maintains the factory coverings and solves the electrical problems.
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  #18  
Old 11-30-2006, 04:15 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,632
wow, great thread!

thanks to you very experienced folks sharing with the rest of us.

my plug wire experience is getting a bit old and i thought perhaps it didnt have relevance any more (having driven only diesels for the last 20 yr or so).

it is comforting to know that some things never change....copper wires are the best.

i happen to have a good sized stash of high quality packard wire that i got from a place going out of the business years ago!

i bought it 25 years ago when i had my 52 pontiac ambulance. at that time you could buy very simple high quality ends from jc whitney and make your own wires, which i did with the pontiac. (it was a straight eight flathead)

those straight eights have their own distinctive sound. its neat!

tom w

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