First time I have ever had a problem with a tie rod end.

This is for the 300ce 113k miles.

When you turn the wheel, it clunks. I traced the sound to the inner tie rod end on the driver's side.

Should I just replace both ends on each side and be done with it?

Also, any brand to stay away from?

The cars have been doing so well, I haven't been on here for awhile


Lee

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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

Whatever you do you should do on both sides. I'd be surprised if you can find just the ends.

Inner and outer are part of the "tie rod assembly" in Fastlane. Go with Lemfoerder, they're OEM. Get alignment done afterwards, of course.

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Prost!

They do have just the ends - not that cheap though. I'd be tempted to get the whole thing.

I used URO's on both sides of mine. 25k later I was replacing one end. I bought a Moog that turned out to be a TRW or vise-versa, from Advance Auto for $30 or $40. For the pain it was to get it out of the URO sleave I probably would have been better off just buying the whole assembly from the dealer, I think they wanted about $90 for the whole thing. I bought the Uro's before I knew how bad they were. When I cut the bad one open There was absolutly no grease in it at all.

The short story, do NOT buy URO's but the TRW/MOOG, which ever it was "looked" to be a quality product that said "Made in USA' on it.

i'll buy full assemblies for both sides and be done with it...

.....do you think i should replace the center drag link as well...?????? i am leaning against doing that.....

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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

As said by others, don't waste your time with the ends -- replace the entire arm. Its not much more expensive at all.

If the bushings in the drag link look OK -- leave it. If you want to just because you have everything apart -- go for it Can't go wrong with preventative.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

If you plan on keeping the car for the foreseeable future, replace the drag link too. It only makes sense while you're already busy separating ball joints, and this way you get it all done before your alignment. Again, stick with Lemförder.

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Prost!

i am going to get the drag link as well..... should have never been an issue

__________________
1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

do you think injecting grease inside the URO version would help? I bought URO tie rods for the 240D

I've heard of people doing that somewhere and sealing the hole with a rubberized caulk but have no experience with that at all.

I'll give it a try then.

Carefully measure the "pin to pin", or center to center dimensions on the old ones before removal. Then pre-adjust the new ones to the same dimensions. This will keep your alignment the same as before. Even if you're planning to get an alignment after the work. This will keep you from fighting the vehicles steering all the way to the shop.

Gook luck,