rear camber on W124 chassies, What's the deal?
 

Hello all,
It irks me that I can't adjust camber on my rearend with all these beatiful links.

When I bought the car it was lowered with an Eibach kit of some sort (a sticker on one of the springs tells me that) and it has a negative camber of 2.0 and 2.1 in the rear. These are the only alignemts that are out of spec on the car, everything else is right on the money.

It would be nice to adjust it down a tad bit to get it to spec and getting rid of the "saggy" look at the same time.

I figured it might be a bushing that is shot somewhere and began hunting. The only suspects I found were the thrustarms on both sides and these were replaced promtly but it didn't improve the camber.
Took a look in a Haynes manual and saw that on their car they have eccentric bolt adjustments on the lower inner mounting point for the bottom controlarms. However on my car it's a simple round hole and a straight bolt only.

My plan is to get a eccentric bolt that fits the bushing and take my trusty powertools and make the hole oval.

Sounds simple right? anything that I have missed?

I send mine to the shop for proper alignment after replacing the springs. Their equipment is computerised, so the adjustments are done accurately, such our naked eye can never differentiate.

Spend the couple of dollars and save on uneven wear on your tires!

I was planning to do
 

this before I go to the alignment rack again

It would be nice to give the alignment guy a way of adjusting the rear camber in order for him to get my car exactly to factory specs.

Last time he could only measure the camber to 2.0 and 2.1 and that was it:( no adjustment points avaliable.

2 deg of negative camber will cause some "inside" tire wear on the rear. Making your own cams at the rear subframe is just what we do on lowered cars.

The outer control arm bushings wear. This will affect camber.
Often overlooked, they are were the arm meets the wheel bearing carrier assem. [ same geometry point that a front ball joint is located]

They have been
 

checked already.

I compressed the spring to take the load off the assembly
and then checked each component both visually and by prying/twisting.

I found nothing that seemed out of the ordinary.

when I put the car on wheels with some wood underneath the spring to simulate a original spring the camber is as specified so
This leads me to believe it is the actual lowering that changes the geometry as opposed to wear and tear.

I going to get a eccentric bolt today and give it a try.

Per, have you considered just buying a camber adjustment kit specifically for the w124. They are expensive but well worth it when you consider the effort you would go through to fix it yourself or the number of times you replace tires. Try www.delsingmotorsport.com they sell this adjustable arm which replaces the camber arm of the w124:
http://www.delsingmotorsport.com/camber_arms001.JPG.

Just a suggestion....