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#1
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Stripped oil pan threads -__-
So I was changing on the oil on my 91 300E and everything was going the same as always but when I went to tighten the drain plug back up, it got to a certain point and went loose again and I automatically knew what just happened, I pulled the drain plug back out and the threads were still on the plug.
I am less than two weeks away from needing to drive this car back to California, I can't afford atm to drop 200$ on a new oil pan, is there any fix I can do that will just last me 1,200 miles. As soon as I get back to California I will be able to get a new pan but not before this trip. Can I buy a the next size plug and tap threads into it? Rethreading plug? ugh....fml
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2007 BMW 328XI |
#2
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Sure you can rethread it. Something like this - http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/thread_compounds/a_thread_sealants/auto_Permatex_Thread_Sealant_with_PTFE.htm - should hold it for a while too. If it holds just keep topsiding your oil changes. JB Welding it would obviously hold but would be permanent. Changing that oil pan is a pretty big job. You might just want to become a devout topsider.
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#3
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Many years ago I did something similar with my first car (an old VW Rabbit...). At that time Canadian Tire sold a rubber expansion plug that did the job. Basically there was a "plunger" type tool that would force the rubber plug to shrink in diameter as you jammed it into the hole... and when you yanked the plunger out the rubber would expand back to it's original shape (you would basically stretch the rubber by pressing on the tool... this would reduce the diameter... when you removed the tool the plug would return to it's original larger size). Did the job until I could work on the car in warmer weather. I think it's likely that other auto parts shops might have something like this. Lordco?? etc...
This one (bottom of the page) is sort of what I recall (it was twenty five years ago... lol): http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/maintenance/1272546?page=3 |
#4
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Thanks for the replies guys, I stopped at an auto parts place on my way to work and they gave me another plug that is "oversized that will rethread the pan, they just warned me not to go to fast or tight because if the pan is aluminum it's crack it and I'll need a new pan regarless. Is this route too risky? Or is there a safer way? One of the ways y'all mentioned?
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2007 BMW 328XI |
#5
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Quote:
This is OK, but...someone at a quickie tire change place stripped the threads and put one of these in on my wife's car (of course, without telling her). Eventually, the rubber goes bad and now you have another problem.
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86 560SL With homebrew first gear start! 85 380SL Daily Driver Project http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm |
#6
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... for sure... the rubber will fail over time. OP wanted a quick fix for 1200miles prior to replacing the pan when trip was over. I used this type of plug out of desperation as I lived in Northern Ontario... it was winter... I did not have a garage... I was a poor student... I needed a quick fix like the OP (and like the OP I intended to replace the pan eventually... In my case I waited un til it was warmer out).
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#7
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Three options:
1. Consider that $200 is the cheapest insurance you will get, to prevent blowing up an engine that works perfectly fine today. If you dump the oil out of that pan over your 1200 mile trip, you will cook the engine and have to spend way way more than $200. So buy a pan if you possibly can in any way! 2. If #1 isn't possible, go with that oversized plug. Get it tight but not tight enough that you will crack the pan. Take an extra plug, and a lot of extra oil (in case you spring a leak.. you can keep filling it up and limp to the nearest service shop) WATCH YOUR OIL GAUGE very very closely. As in, make it a habit to look at the gauge every 2 mins for your entire trip. If you can do this, you'll be fine. At the first sign of anything wrong, stop the car and check the plug immediately. 3. Can't you remove the plug, then put a bolt through the hole with a nut on the inside? Get a bolt that is the same size or slightly larger than the original drain plug, so it fits tightly. Put a washer and nut on the inside of the pan and that will hold the whole thing together. Permanent fix Buy a topsider and start sucking the oil out. Unless you're keeping this car for more than 5-10 more years, just leave the bolt in and keep sucking the oil out.
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'83 300SD 335,000km (207k) mi SOLD '87 560SL 163,000km (101k mi) SOLD '86 300SDL 356,000km (220k mi) SOLD '92 500SEL 250,000km (155k mi) SOLD '90 300SL 140,000km (87k mi) SOLD '01 S430 260,000km (161k mi) SOLD '03 SL500 167,000km (104k mi) SOLD '07 S550 4MATIC 235,000km (146k mi) SOLD '07 GL320 CDI 4MATIC 348,000km (215k mi) '13 GL350 BlueTec 4MATIC 170,000km (105k mi) '14 SL550 72,000km (43k mi) |
#8
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Thank you for all the help on this thread, I see I forgot to post the outcome and what I ended up doing. I made it back to California with no oil pan leaks and still have no leaks! I went with the plug at the auto parts store which was half a size bigger than my my original plug, as stated they had warned me not to go too fast and tight or else I could crack the pan and need a new one regardless. I noticed my new half a size bigger plug was much longer than the original and that kind of worried me, I put it on and SLOWLY began to turn it, stopping every so often to make sure it wasn't cracking and the closer I got to the middle the more it felt like it was going to tighten up even though I was only halfway there, I kept turning slowly and it eventually went all the way in and tightened, I started the car and did a test drive and she wasn't leaking!
Although the issue I have now is I'm not sure if it's wise to take it out for a oil change and if I should just do top changes through the dipstick until I can afford the pan replacement job..
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2007 BMW 328XI |
#9
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Don't take it out. Topside until you can get a new pan.
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#10
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If you drop the pan, get it heilcoiled at a machine shop. Shouldn't be a problem. You could even do it under the car yourself.
I wouldn't screw around with that oversized plug. It will be an issue next oil change and every change after that. rjp
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03 540I (GAK!!) 81 280E (W123) 70 LeMans Sport with pissed off Poncho 462" 1989 Silverado Step Side (under the knife- complete restomod) |
#11
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Search around for a used oil pan while you have time.
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Prost! |
#12
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Yeah that's what I figured, I'll be top siding then for awhile until the new pan is ready to be installed, I don't think I mind though, looks like it's an easier, faster and cleaner way to change the oil... Thanks everyone!
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2007 BMW 328XI |
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