This thread will Detail with pictures on how to replace the Throttle Actuator in a 1994 E320 Wagon NON ASR Type..

I started by removing the intake tube from the air box, I took off the Mass air flow Sensor with the tube, I'm replacing it too, but for the sake of the tread your Mass air flow is probably good. Remember to Disconnect your Mass air flow Sensor AND The air intake temp Wire (2 connections total) before lifting out the intake tube!

Next, I took off the Diverter flap, There is 4 screws 2 of them are under a rubber cap, you will need a 5mil Allen for this. Once you have the screws out you can very gently pull up with a slight rocking motion if needed and pull the flap out, it will have a 2 prong wire connected to it, Mark the connector and disconnect it.

Next, you want to take off the rubber boot thats on the actuator itself, chances are the clamp at the bottom has the screw to loosen it towards the engine. be creative in your approach to this. It took me a good 20 minutes to do this. then again I have big fat hands... so you may have better luck... The boot iself has a twist lock type tab I was unaware of, you turn it to the right slightly and then pull up.

There you have the throttle actuator, its the big silver thing. To take it off, there's 4 allen type bolts holding it in, they too are 5mil. spray them with your choice of: Pb Blaster, WD-40, Kroil etc. let it soak a little. For grins and giggles I had a small piece of solid stock I put that over the bolt heads and with a hammer gave it a light tap to break any corrosion free, I got 3 of the 4 bolts out no problem, Well, they are loosened in there the 4th, someone did a botched repair job (pictures coming soon) and rounded out the one allen for me. If all goes well, the actuator will be free to lift off, On the right hand side, looking at it from the fender side, there's a spring, and a linkage with ball type joint on it, remove them, on the left of it, (the connection is usually wrapped around) is the connection for the Actuator itself, it's tucked under the intake and it's the large round connector, there's 3 or 4 large pins with multiple smaller pins gently pull this connection apart, especially if you have not replaced your harness, though it's moot to replace the actuator without replacing the upper harness if it's cracked... anyways. Once you disconnect that round connector, the actuator should lift out the hole where the diverter flap was and the intake boot comes in.

The Reverse is the way to put it all together again. I believe there is a gasket underneath the actuator itself you will need to replace to ensure a decent seal and no leaks. all total it's a 1-3 hour job depending on your technical skill level.

I spoke with Whunter (Roy) Which I would recommend anyone to do if they are stuck. He's a great fellow and goes out of his way to help ya out (Thanks Roy!) he gave me some great ideas on how to get the little bugger out, which i'll try and post here as well.

the following pictures are a definitive reason why I had a crappy time having this car run and drive right...






I hope this thread helps someone down the road who is doing this job.

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hum.....
1987 300TD 311,000M Stolen. Presumed destroyed