W124 (1990 300TE) Driver-Side Sun Visor Repairable?
 

Driver Side Sun Visor (P/N 124 810 07 10) on my 1990 300TE literally broke out of its (doorside) roof anchor. The anchor, in my case a blue plastic oval, affixes to the interior roof with two Phillips screws and holds the visor-shaft / ball.

The plastic anchor (visor-shaft / ball socket) cracked. An inspection of the passenger side unit (still intact) looks like the visor-shaft and ball are simply held in the anchor and clamped by a press-fit plastic bushing. According to the dealer, I cannot purchase a replacement anchor and bushing (looks like about 50 cents worth of parts required) ... but must purchase a complete replacement visor (I’ve gotten quotes of $118 to $141).

Anyone sourced a replacement visor anchor ... or otherwise have suggestions in tackling this apparently simple fix ... repair or replace visor anchor and bushing? Thanx much ...

I know what you mean....
 

The plastic anchor (pivot point) on the driver's side visor of my 420SEL broke. I went to the dealer thinking I'd just buy a $2.00 plastic piece and fix it. :)

Much to my surprise, however, I was told I had to buy the whole darned thing:mad: visor and all!

Fortunately, the way mine broke I was able to fix it. :D It is a little wobbly, but functional and it saved me a bunch of of money. :rolleyes:

I think you can check with the parts guy, here in this site, and they may be able to get you a repalcement for a lot less money than the dealer's price. Or you can try checking used car parts dealers, i.e., junkyards and see if you can find one from them.

Good luck...I feel your pain.

you may find the most cost effective OEM replacement parts residing in the boneyards....
-fad

Benz-LGB--What adhesive...
 

...did you use? Mine bracket split completely, and the #268 grey is much harder to find a color match for. With all the parts that can be easily replaced on these, this seems silly.
Earl McLain
LaPorte, IN
'89 560 SEL

Repair Completed
 

Just a little follow-up. I took the damaged plastic visor-shaft / ball-socket anchor, cut a snippet of copper roof flashing about two inches long and 3/8-inch wide and formed a dam around the cracked inside socket, filled the “mold” with two-part epoxy and let it cure over night. I then drilled a new visor-shaft hole through the epoxy, filed the copper dam / epoxy flat. I put 1/4-20 threads on the visor shaft end and secured the shaft with a washer / nut and locktite. Spent more than an hour on this little project, but the repair functions better than the undamaged unit on passenger side.

W124 visor mount....
 

Does anyone know if the S class mount (which sounds more robust) is available as a seperate part and is it compatible? My mount is cracked...pics to follow. I think it would be easy to machine some 2 piece ball sockets to replace this and am going to give that a try....although I like the epoxy mold solution too!

Thanks for any info !

Here are pix....
Was there someone on ebay that sells them....they sell lots of little parts like a/c diaphrams....
If anyone has a picture of an S class part from 91-95, I would be interested to see it.

Thanks again.

Here is a blue 201 visor, and the guy says "may fit 124"
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46102&item=7960680930&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW#ebayphotohosting
Looks like it would cost $60 with shipping, which seems steep to me.
I need to reglue the visor vanity mirror back into place on my 300SD.
It pops off when I lower my visor.... (surprise...ooops) but I wonder if epoxy is the best stuff to use, or some other adhesive?
Plastic can be hard to glue properly; indeed, some glues dissolve plastic.

FWIW, My pivot / mounting piece is stamped W201.....

I can't believe they only sell the assembly....where are the OEM mfgs?

How to fix it with nailpolish and twine... Seriously
 

So I removed the two screws and slowly heated up the cracked plastic mount until the plastic got glossy and I felt the base was evenly warmed up and could be molded. Then I pinched the plastic in a little with a pliers (to tighten up how the base holds onto the metal stud) and took a piece of bare copper wire like the stuff used in houses and molded a little channel around the base so I could wrap twine around it to keep the crack pulled together. After I wound a bunch of twine around the base I coated it with nailpolish to keep it together and to tighten up a little more. Let it dry overnight and popped it in. Works perfectly and has held up well so far.

1/2-32 knurled nut
 

I have a assortment of potentiometer and switch nuts from various electronic projects over the years. I found one that was just almost able to slip onto the very end of the plastic, then I gave it a few turns with a pliers to force it to thread onto the plastic so it won't slip off.

I'm pretty sure the size I used is 1/2"-32 though I don't have a thread gauge to actually measure it with.