The electric pressure bleeders at the dealership run at 15 psi. I have used them many times

well I have had trouble with air leaking around the threads of the cap I have a piece of taype on it to seal it off, at 10 lbs it holds but I stood there holding the air chuck on the valve core with nothing coming out from the caliper. so I am frustrated with my home made system.

THE NEW MOTIVE PUMP CAME IN THIS EVE. BUT AFTER HOOKING UP AND PUMPING THE PRESSUR TO 10 NOTHING HAPPEND THEN 15 STILL NO FLUSH NOW TO 20 STILL NO FLOW! WHAT THE HELL CAN BE STOPPING THE FLUID FROM GOING THREW THE LINES?

Did you try all 4 bleeder screws. I have heard of trash stuck in caliper maybe from brake line or fittings breaking down.

I had an issue with the master cylinder where the little black rubber caps (for brake level sensor?) were cracked and the master cylinder would not build any pressure. Air (and brake fluid) would just leak. What I did was apply a TON of gorilla glue to the cracked cap and then put a hose clamp (3/4 inch?) around and tighten it as much as possible. I haven't bled the brakes yet but the pressure was holding with minimal air leaking (still heard a hissing sound, just was tolerable).

well I have worked on tracing the lines off the master going to the ABS. the rear line of the master leaked fluid at the ABS./ but the front line from the master to the ABS shows no fluid, so my thoughts are now leaning toward the master being bad any thoughts out there?

What made you want to bleed it in the first place?

You might get lucky at 30PSI on the reservoir, but I personally wouldn't risk over 20PSI max.

Good luck with it.

__________________
2001 SLK 320 six speed manual
2014 Porsche Cayenne six speed manual

Annoy a Liberal, Read the Constitution

I remember trying to use a vacuum bleeder on a 79 dodge 3 ton with a grain box on it. i opened the vavles as far as I dared to, and still nothing no matter how hard I pumped... so, with one valve open at a time, I got into the truck, and pumped the brake pedal a few times..... Out came stuff that looked like mud with a very thick grease/semi hard wax/grinding paste like texture.... after fluid was coming, I bled it with no problems with the vacuum... funny the brakes didn't seem to stop much better after the change of fluid... the improvement was marginal at best...
I remember practically standing on the brake pedal, and pushing against the roof to get the first pump on each brake to go, after that, it got progressively easier... I had to take the bleed screws out to get that to happen though...
that might be your problem... stuff is clogging the system somewhere along the line and needs pumping out with more force than the pressure bleeder can provide...

__________________
All it takes for evil to prevail is for good men to stand by and do nothing.

Too many people tip toe through life, never attempting or doing anything great, hoping to make it safely to death... Bob Proctor

'95 S320 LWB
'87 300SDL
'04 E500 wagon 4matic

Maybe with key on and engine off could help with ABS too.

Latest on the bleeding trouble with this sec modle, found that the master was infact the problem. I broke down the lines from the master to the ABS and of course no fluid, so I removed the master and found that the rubber( the seal for the fluid reservoir) had softened just enough to cover the hole in the front of the master cylinder. there for no fluid flow. after that we had good flow and no brake trouble. though I did have a front calilper sticking causeing a drag. I suppose for those who never think of changeing or flushing the brake system you can exspect this type of trouble.