I'd have to disagree with you on that. It doesn't have to have the three pointed star on it to be good. It must be researched to reveal that the part is Made In Germany however, or Austria or somewhere in Eastern Europe where all of the OE suppliers have factories. So yeah, it does take a bit of homework to ensure you get good part, but you don't necessarily have to get it at the dealer and it doesn't necessarily have to have the tiny MB logo on it. There is some money to be saved that way. Of course the path of least resistance is to just go ahead and pay the (sometimes HUGE) premium and buy the part at the dealer. And yet sometimes, you have no other choice.

Uro parts are junk. That I can agree on.

if you want to save some $$, measure the rotors using a micrometer and compare them to spec. If they are still within spec then machine then and just buy a good set of pads. Use original MB pads to ensure you will have no problems unless you want to upgrade to a performance pad or a pad with less brake dust. MB pads emit alot of brake dust

I purchased a set of four rotors last year for my '89 260e, but the rear rotors didn't include a hole for the rear hub's alignment pin (almost directly opposite the retainer hex screw). The parts supplier suggested that I simply cut-off the hub's alignment pin. But I was never quite comfortable doing so and only replace my rear brake pads. The pads need replacing again so my questions are as follows:

1) Is it okay to grind-off the alignment pin on the hub, or should I purchase a new set of rotors with the correct hole pattern?

2) If the consensus is to purchase a new set of rear rotors, then what brand model is recommended (as many of the rear rotor pics seem to show hole patterns that don't include a hole for the alignment pin).

Thanks in advance for your help.

Steven, recommend buying new rotors from your local MB dealer. Grinding off the alignment pin would not be a good idea, at least I would never consider it.

Hi, Steven.

Considering that (1) the purpose for the alignment pin is likely to aid in speeding up factory assembly (after all, once the lug bolts are in, it's not going anywhere) and (2) that the pin was dropped later in the 124 model run, I think you are perfectly safe to remove it. I believe it's simply pressed in, but at that age it may prove rather difficult to remove. If you try to grind it, you must be very precise, since it overlaps the mating surface and you certainly don't want to damage the hub...nor do you want to leave even a hint of raised bump behind (or the rotor will not seat properly).

Personally, I'd try to remove it before ordering new rotors, and if that fails, then you have to decide whether you have the time, tools and talent to properly grind it off. If not, get OE rotors.

Of course, if you are a purist, leave the pin in place...but if you were a purist, you wouldn't be asking that question. ;)

As to which rotors to buy, I would use the EPC to look up specific part numbers for your car by VIN. Then search for that part number on line, and it should have the pin hole. I suspect part of the issue you are running into is that places are stocking "one number" for convenience which fits later models, but omits the pin hole for older chassis (likely a lesser manufacturer doesn't know the older models have the pin and it's cheaper to make the rotor if you drill one less hole).

And if you're shopping on flea-bay, well, don't expect much. ;)

Good luck.

you can buy cheap rotors and have them chilled in liquid nitrogen to stabilize the metal. I did.I bought cheap U.S. made rotors

For years I have bought parts from Baker Automotive on Piedmont Road in Buckhead. They are pretty good guys. In fact when Pep Boys finally decided their reman brake caliper would not fit my 81 300SD, they went down the street and got one from Baker. Baker is just north of Cheshire Bridge on Piedmont on the right if you are going north. They are in the phone book.

I didn't realize that :

(1) the pin was dropped in later 124 model runs, and
(2) the pin is pressed in.

Thanks for both pieces of info. I'll see whether I can remove the pin as my next step. Any tool/technique suggestions from the forum before I give it a go?

PS. Yeah, I don't shop at flea-bay. So far, my only source for parts online has been Lee, because I like to support the guys behind this forum, which has benefited me time and time again for more than 10yrs. :)

The ebay reference was really tongue-in-cheek, particularly for others who might come across the thread later. I shake my head in wonder at some of the posts about ebay parts.

I tossed you some other suggestions about removing the pin in a reply to your PM. I wish you well with it.

For both my ML and 400E, Zimmerman rotors have proven to be the most stable. I am pretty sure that the Zimmerman coated rotors ARE the MB OE rotors without the star... save yourself a few bucks and don't compromise on longevity and feel. There are a number of companies that make brake components and I think I've tried them all. For me, the Zimmerman brand has been a solid choice... Pads.. I am a Akebono convert. I was a solid OE only persona before but now I am sold on the Akebono Euro Ceramic user. Very good brake feel, reduced dust, smooth and even rotor wear. I would dare say that I am getting a little more life out of my pads and rotors compared to previous combinations.

Out of curiousity I just visited the Akebono web site and could not find a part number for REAR pads, as they only listed fronts for my '89 260e

Akebono Online Parts Catalog

Do they not make rears for my model? Or, can someone post the correct p/n. Thanks.