I can see your point Michael. I only gave a Reader's Digest version, my fault. Trying to be extra quick while utilizing a bit of quiet time at work.

If cracking the bleeder while compressing a caliper piston, you have to be sure that only one piston is moving at a time. This is accomplished by using a plate mounted to hold the oppsing piston firm, or by leaving the old pad on the opposing side while compressing. Once the piston is compressed slip in the new pad and compress the opposite piston. This keeps the pistons from lodging in their bores. Can't say that it prevents contaminants from entering through the bleeder though. Cracking the bleeder prevents an overflow condition at the brake resevoir, something that can be avoided by simply siphoning off some of the old fluid beforehand, eliminating the need to crack the screw. I would also crack the bleeder screw only if flushing the system immediately afterward.

So many ways to skin a cat.

__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

Thanks for understanding my intent, Mike; my thoughts are with you on that mutha of a project you've taken on, BTW! Hope you catch a break every now & again...that's gonna be a sweet ride when it's all said and done-the pain's temporary, keep telling yourself!

__________________
"If God had meant for us to walk, why did he give us feet that fit car pedals?" Sir Sterling Moss

Michael
2014 E63S Estate
2006 SLK55
1995 E500
1986 Porsche 944 turbo

About how much brake fluid would I use?

About a quart/litre.

__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

Mike,

Thanks for the reference to the pressure bleeder. Did you make one of these? I have a couple of questions about the reservoir cap/valve stem.
1. Is it necessary to cut the grove in the valve stem?
2. I don't get the part about the notch in the valve stem and the cap.
3. Does the tube end that attatches to the valve stem slide over the notch?

Any clarification would be appreciated. Also, the speed bleeders look pretty cool.

__________________
Mr. BILL

91 300E 120K
90 300SE 275K (sold)
92 BMW 525iM 120K
90 BMW 525iA 175K
85 300D 175K (sold)
84 300SD 245K (sold)

Yes Bill I built my own. No I didn't notch the stem and cap. Donald did that as he continued to use the modified cap for daily use. I picked up a cap at the salvage yard and made it a permanent part of the bleeder. I believe the cap would only need to be vented for use while driving. The tubing just slips over the valve stem, the important part about the valve stem on the cap is to be sure and remove the valve so you only have the stem. The valve stem on the pressure tank retains the valve. You can either apply pressure from a compressor or manually pump the handle and read the pressure at the stem with a tire gauge. Very simple, only took about 15 minutes to build, worked great.

__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

Thanks Mike, I think I'll give it a shot. I actually have a new small pump sprayer in the garage.

I'll let you know how it works.

__________________
Mr. BILL

91 300E 120K
90 300SE 275K (sold)
92 BMW 525iM 120K
90 BMW 525iA 175K
85 300D 175K (sold)
84 300SD 245K (sold)