brittle plastic plug ends in engine compartment - replaceable?
 

Just finished with the ICV hoses and AFM boot replacement along with all new injectors, insulators, o-rings, & seals on M103. I'm trying to pass emissions testing, and the old parts had 170k on them. I have not found peace of mind though, as it seems it doesn't make but maybe a slight difference in smoothness at idle(it was already smooth as glass). Even though the old rubber bits are no longer what I would call pliable, they weren't cracked and seemed to be doing the job. Who knows. Car runs pretty good anyway.

The air boot underneath the AFM was unbelieveably difficult to seat. I could not have done it without a set of hose picks. One tip - install the band clamp after you get the boot seated successfully. It will only be in the way otherwise.

However the plastic plug ends on all the plugs under the air cleaner - ICV, EHA, AFM potentiometer, coolant temp on the head, and the single conductor one at the rear of the head; ALL of them broke their little snap tabs. And I was gentle, believe me. The plug at the EHA snapped its tabs as I was reinstalling the plug. They still plug in OK and I'm sure it doesn't matter all that much, but jeez.

Are these replaceable? I didn't see any part numbers on them, but then again I wasn't looking for them either. It would be nice to renew them if possible.

http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/subscribe.jsp
 

EPC-net Online - Subscription Step 1 of 3

EPC is showing Pins,Bushings and "Housings/Covers" for wire terminations.

Sure looks like to me ...If there's a plug under the hood you can get It.

Ditto, all of the plastic covers should be available.

And they should have a MB part number on them.

How do the ends replace? Do you cut the wires and re-solder the new ends??

W.T.
 

The ends "SHOULD" be soldered to the "Pins".
[After they roll off the Assembly Line ,Who Knows what's done to them?]

So you'd just Open up the Old/Bad "Cover" and transfer the Wires/Pins to
the New Plug and Cover.

I would take a Digital Picture (Or draw a diagram of the Wire arrangement)
before doing the transfer,to prevent His Highness of Obfuscation Mr. Murphy
from "Rearranging" the Order as you work.

I know it would be more expensive, but isn't it possible to order the entire wiring harness that goes on the engine? That way you would have fresh wires/coatings and everything

The wire harnesses on the 103 don't really have issues like the 104's did. No real reason to change it IMO.

124 440 56 32
 

$900.00 USD (Stealer retail)

AND that's only one of the 300E 's engine cable harnesses!