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#1
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Idler arm repair photos (M103)
Just got done with removal...waiting for the new one in the mail.
I ended up dropped exhaust...No possibility to get around it, even though I had exhaust unbolted from manifolds already. I just read a post on another forum though that you can in fact unbolt the passenger motor mount then raise the engine to gain access for future readers -- but here it is exhaust dropped. ![]() ![]() ![]() Did not have a 24mm socket, but luckily 5/16ths fits almost exactly. No room for slack with this bolt! Its tight...I'm telling ya!! ![]() Put a 24mm or 5/16ths big wrench on the top bolt otherwise it just keeps spinning. If you put it right here, the chassis will hold it in place. You need all your strength for the breaker bar below... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#2
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You can also cut the bolt head off, and then install the new one with the nut on top.
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![]() 90 300TE 4-M Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim T04B cover .60 AR Stage 3 turbine .63 AR A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control 3" Exh, AEM W/B O2 Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys, Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster. 3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start 90 300CE 104.980 Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression 197° intake cam w/20° advancer Tuned CIS ECU 4° ignition advance PCS TCM2000, built 722.6 600W networked suction fan Sportline sway bars V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff |
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