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#16
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I'm glad you pointed out that the size of the person is part of the 2X12 thing. I'm 190 pounds and 6'1". The 2X12's allow me to wiggle underneath enough to check things out. I have at times drained the oil without raising the car at all, although I would rather get underneath to look everything over.
By just reaching underneath without the car elevated, you can remove the belly pan and the drain plug. I would suggest you do this in your old clothes, not that new Hart, Schaftner and Marx. My comment about oil temperature is based on watching the oil temperature guage in my Vette. The Vette has an oil cooler and might be thermostatically operated. In that car the oil temperature after about 17 miles or so will stay above the coolant temperature by about 20 degrees. You must have an oil temp guage on your Benz. I read somewhere a few years ago that it typically takes 17 miles of driving for the oil to reach operating temperature. I have found this to be true in watching the oil temp guage on the Vette. Draining or drawing the oil at operating temperature helps greatly in getting the maximum amount of contaminants to come out with the oil. I believe you could do a better job removing HOT oil out the top than draining COLD oil out the bottom or otherwise remove it. Good luck, |
#17
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Thanks, Larry. (We have amazingly fine and helpful people that post on these ShopForum threads.)
Mike |
#18
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I recently read that using a metal tube for the section that goes into the engine is the way to go.
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#19
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On my 911, the oil temperature was all over depending on your driving. Lots of idling in traffic meant sky high oil temps. Super hard driving also meant high temps. Easy freeway driving meant lower temps.
The fastest way to warm the 911's oil was to let it idle for a couple minutes, then drive the car relatively easily for 10-12 kilometers, and then just a little harder for the next 10 kilometers. Oil was about 100C by then. On my race bike, I had an oil temp gauge (in F) with a tell-tale so we could see the spike temperatures. At Shannonville Speedway we saw 350F oil temps. One race and the oil was BEAT. Rarely did the temp fall below 300F.
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John Shellenberg 1998 C230 "Black Betty" 240K http://img31.exs.cx/img31/4050/tophat6.gif |
#20
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The oil temperature behavior in a 911 is a whole different ball game. The oil in one of these great machines is basically acting as a coolant as well as, of course, a lubricant. The oil temperature will behave much differently than it will in a liquid cooled engine.
Have a great day, |
#21
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The M104 has a oil-coolant heat exchanger, so oil temps are kept in control most of the time.
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Ali Al-Chalabi 2001 CLK55 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2002 Harley-Davidson Fatboy Merlin Extralight w/ Campy Record |
#22
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My Vette has an oil cooler as well. In the summer oil temp runs around 220 to 240. Cooler in the Winter of course.
Have a great day, |
#23
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I have used that particular topsider a few times now. Works very well and keeps my hands clean. I plan to use alternate between using the topsider and draining the oil from the bottom, so that I do get to look and peek around. I also help family/friends a lot with oil changes so the topsider is very handy.
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1997 E420 |
#24
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Quote:
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#25
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I'm 6'2" and 160 lbs. I can easily slide under my lowered 300ce and still have room to work with. hehe
I use both a topsider and drain plug methods. I usually do a topsider at all changes, but every 6 months I do a drainplug drain overnight ala larry's method. Although some ASS stole my topsider off my property. I gotta remember to lock the outside shed. So looks like I'll be ordering a new topsideing tool soon. I think I'll go with an electric pump one. I never had issues with hot oil. The tube would collapse, but I would topside it for the 20 mins, repump, and do it again. After that it was all good. Now, I'll pick up a liquivac or somehting similar and just enjoy myself. Alon
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'92 300CE - Sold 2004 C240 - 744 - C7 Wheels - Android Radio 2002 C320 - 816 - Sport Wagon |
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