Flywheel tool worked a charm:

Here's the culprit spot its leaking from. Going to be a tad more liberal in that area this time around, using Genuine MB sealant.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

On replacing the serpentine belt tensioner bracket to the front case, did you use a sealant on the back and front of the bracket ? In the manual, it said not to replace this without doing so .Oil can leak from that area if sealant is not used.

As far as the manual states, the only one that needs sealant is for the bolt that goes through the middle where the small O-ring is, shown above -- the lower right fan clutch bearing bracket bolt. It just says to coat that bolt in sealant.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

I'm doing a head gasket on my '88 M103, and would like to change out the plastic guide (tensioner side). BUT...I don't want to pull the lower timing case, if it can be avoided.

Yesterday I spoke to a mechanic who owns an independent (mostly MB) shop, and he said that I could remove a bolt in the lower timing case cover--the one just to the left of the crankshaft nose, presumably--and pull out the banana-shaped guide rail.

I interpreted him to be saying that I DON'T have to remove the lower cover to change the guide rail. Does this seem right? He may have been confused about whether I already had the cover off. I'd rather not do everything else to pull the lower timing case cover, if it can be avoided.