This is how I have it set up:

http://i.imgur.com/AKCgul.jpg

That's the correct connections.

Which wire did you cut from vacuum pump to door actuator?

Were you able to setup for 3 sec delay?

Have not been able to enter setup still...I don't understand why.

Seems although the doors UNLOCK, factory alarm goes off when opening the door so it's obviously still not working right even on unlock.

It's working fine. As you are manually locking and unlocking with remote will trigger alarm.
It won't do that once you are able to lock using remote and unlocking with it as well.

You know I honestly don't remember doing anything in the 'programming' section of mine.

If I get a chance I'll pull up my back seat in the 190E and write down how I have it wired up. Maybe I did something different compared to what I've written in the previous posts on here.

REAR install Location
 

Jimmy,

You've got yours done the SANE way!
(Easy Direct, Access with No Guessing [As DEI wants you to do] to the Vacuum
Pump's wiring AND Power and Ground!)

That's My Remedial Plan for this Unit!

Bonus is the Convenience Control Unit (Power Windows and Sunroof) is right
over on the other side (Driver's) of the Rear "Under Seat".

So I'm gonna use one of the "Aux" functions for Remote Window/Sunroof open close.

If
 

You have a Factory Alarm (AND I Don't).
AND
You use Jimmy's simpler wiring and rear location (Under the Rear Seat).
Which uses the Vacuum Pump DIRECTLY to open and close the Door Locks.
Does Opening the Door Locks DISABLE the Factory Alarm?
(AND Vice Versa with the Locking Function?)

Or do "You who Have" a Mercedes Alarm System have to go through some further "Tom Foolery" with the Microswitches in the Doors/Trunk???

My 190E had a factory alarm at one point but the module has since been removed.

My 420SEL still has the factory alarm installed. The unit arms/disarms normally (lock=arm, unlock=unarm) However, I did notice that if I locked the car while driving down the road, the alarm will go off. I didn't do the keyless entry install though, we paid a shop to do it due to being busy at that point in time.

ps2cho
 

Did it "Let" you into the Inner Programming Sanctum Yet?

I Fought with mine all afternoon.
'Much more Options to the Programming than Initially Appears.
Turns Out EACH Remote can be programmed Separately AND DIFFERENTLY!
At one Point I FINALLY had the New Remote Synced to the Base Unit,BUT
it would only use the .8 Second Pulse...which is no go with Mercedes.
I had to go Back into another section of the programming and reset the
time (3.5 seconds) duration attributed to that New Remote.

You can Also "Loose"/Lockout any Prior remotes that may have been "Lost"
or "Misplaced".

At one Point this afternoon I got into some sort of
"Single Button" programming for the New Remote.

The "Lock" symbol Button would lock and UNLOCK the
system.
I'd push the Lock Symbol and the doors would lock.
If I then pushed the Lock button again the doors
would Unlock???
______________________________________________
The UnLock button did nothing!
______________________________________________
Took me a while to figure out what was going on.
and even longer to figure out how to re-program it.

Mayhaps that's what you're experiencing?

On this car you need the door triggers obviously to trigger valet mode.

1986-93 Mercedes 300 Series Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information

Note- you can hit the door trigger wires the way the diagram link shows (its a hassle that way) or simply pop out the driver's door door pin and tap into the trigger wire there (test to make sure you have the right wire), and then pop out a rear door pin and tap the rear triggers there.

Mercedes has two separate dome lights so you need to run two different door trigger wires.

Run new wires from those two pins directly to the brain at those points.

You WILL need isolation diodes for the triggers to work properly, you cannot just tie the wires together at the alarm. Pick up a set of isolation diodes from Radio Shack.

On the door lock and the factory disarm, get to the vacuum pump motor that triggers the lock / unlock- and find the lock and unlock wires there. IIRC hooking up the (-) trigger to UNLOCK the door at that point will also disarm the factory alarm so they both work together.

Parking light flash you will need diodes again to isolate the LH and RH lights (German car) and you can find those wires behind the headlight switch or go to the trunk, and access the right wires right at the rear parking lights- LH and RH side right at the harness going to the lenses. T-Tap there (yes, I said T-Tap, doesn't break the wire so your lights will always work) Easiest way IMO

rjp

One last thing-Ignore that DIrected diagram (first one you posted), it's messed up. You don't need to do all that. on this car the door lock / unlock is strictly negative trigger.

(Violet) AND (Violet/ Black) on Viper both go to (-) Ground

(Blue/Black)= (-) Unlock wire

(Green/Black)= (-) Lock wire.

Simplest way is to run two wires, one for lock, one for unlock and connect them to the Vacuum pump motor Green and Blue (IIRC Blue is unlock) wires denoted in the diagram above (pump under rear seat)

You do not need the other wires, cap them off.

rjp

I noticed battery is draining overnight a little...is that due to not using diodes you think?

Busy with school this week, so I will try to tackle this again next week and get to bottom of it.

No, that's not gonna do it. disconnect all the doorlock wires you have set up and start over.

rjp