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  #31  
Old 07-14-2013, 10:18 PM
compu_85's Avatar
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So I worked on getting the system charged... results are disappointing.

Pressures:



I had a carpet blower and hose misting the condenser.





The suction line is cool to the touch, as is the compressor body. Compressor, condenser, and TX Valve are new... I'm wondering if the "highest quality" URO expansion valve isn't working right?

:/

-J

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  #32  
Old 07-14-2013, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
So I worked on getting the system charged... results are disappointing.

Pressures:



I had a carpet blower and hose misting the condenser.





The suction line is cool to the touch, as is the compressor body. Compressor, condenser, and TX Valve are new... I'm wondering if the "highest quality" URO expansion valve isn't working right?

:/

-J

If I'm reading your gauges right, 30 PSI Low? 150 PSI high?

IIRC you charge ES-12A based on R12 pressures minus 15 psi on high side..

ACKits says for R12 @ 80F, 18 Psi Low, 170-210 Psi High.

ES-12A says it will run 15 psi lower on high side so you "real" range is 155-195 Psi.

As an FYI, R134A says 80F is 40-50Psi, 175-210 Psi.

Did you charge into a vacuum?
Did you use the "regular" ES-12A? or the "industrial" ES-12A?
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  #33  
Old 07-14-2013, 11:10 PM
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What was the temp outside?
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With best regards

Al
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  #34  
Old 07-14-2013, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alabbasi View Post
What was the temp outside?
Humidity too. Humidity plays a big part in the cooling system's performance.
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  #35  
Old 07-14-2013, 11:15 PM
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Yup, 30/150.

Hm, So it's overcharged? It was 88% humidity.

I used the "regular" ES-12A. I did charge into a vacuum, but by weight it should be close (does having air in the system somehow make it perform better

-J
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  #36  
Old 07-15-2013, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesDean View Post
Humidity too. Humidity plays a big part in the cooling system's performance.
Too big of a role actually. Many people just look at ambient temp and not humidity. If you are dry area, say 20-30% humidity then low pressures are as low as 10-12 psi from say humidity of 80% at ambient of 100.

anyone tried Enviro-safe refrigerant in a 126?-acperformancechart.jpg
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  #37  
Old 07-19-2013, 05:28 PM
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I had poor performance from 134 despite all new components. I figured I'd try Enviro-Safe so I tried the industrial version.

Evacuated, flushed and pulled a vacuum. Followed the directions to the letter. No joy. Compressor engaged, low side pressure 25psi, no cool air, 95F ambient, 40% humidity. Added another 6oz can just for the hell of it, 45psi low side, no cool air coming out of vents. Heater is not part of the problem, I pinched it off to be sure.

I don't have high side pressures figures. Something blocked like the TXV?
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  #38  
Old 07-19-2013, 06:36 PM
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Heres the results of R134A in my 300D from today:

PO charged it with R134A. I had to add some in the spring.



Looks like it meets spec..but thats pretty meh
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82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
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90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
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  #39  
Old 07-19-2013, 07:14 PM
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So I figured out that my Harbor Freight gauges don't work properly, specifically the low side gauge reads low. (imagine that!) I'll report back when I get a working set...

-J
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.
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  #40  
Old 07-19-2013, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
So I figured out that my Harbor Freight gauges don't work properly, specifically the low side gauge reads low. (imagine that!) I'll report back when I get a working set...

-J
Did you adjust gauges for temp?

You can open plastic and move that little screw with flat head if your gauges are not set properly.
I have same set and have to google proper instructions to set them right.
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  #41  
Old 07-19-2013, 11:20 PM
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Pressures look OK - if the low side gauge was really off and reading too low, then the high side should shoot up like crazy. I think propane gets to a runaway pressure point someplace, which is why they blend with isobutane, ask you to keep some air in there (bad idea IMO), etc.

I think that you might not have any real quantity of working fluid in there. With the vehicle fully cold soaked, and pressure on low and high side equilibrated, what do you get? It might be lower than the actual saturated pressure meaning that youre low by a bit. You may have enough in there that the safeties dont trip, but not enough material to actually flow around and move heat.

Im not an HVAC guy, but IIRC, the accumulator or R/D needs to be filled with a quantity of refrigerant in order to work properly. The propane blend is input at a much lower mass than R-12/134a, but I imagine that some still liquifies in there in order to operate properly.

How to tell, especially if there is air and all in there, I dont know.

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