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-   -   Diving into the Suspension for 95 e320 wagon (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/317097-diving-into-suspension-95-e320-wagon.html)

berryrice 05-01-2012 11:52 AM

Diving into the Suspension for 95 e320 wagon
 
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So after test driving cars the past few weeks, I've decided to hang on to my wagon for a bit longer. I've pretty much done the biggies for it myself (main wire harness, head gasket (had a shop do this), and transmission reverse rebuild) and many small things since owning for 8 years. The suspension has not been touched since I've owned it. I could always "live" with my suspension but I want to get it better.

Suspension Issues:
1. Clunkly feeling over potholes, seams in roads, cracks
2. Swaying in the wind feeling when at highway speeds

What I've done:
1. First year I bought the car I replaced the front shocks with OEM shocks with the shock bumpers. Helped the clunkiness a little but not as much as I hoped. But hasn't really got worse since then.

What I've read to replace:
1. Accumulators
2. Rear Control Arms (eight I think)
3. Front control arms (I read mixed info on this but I think my 95 does not have replaceable

Under the Car Inspection:
Nothing seemed really "loose" or obviously cracking. Just all looks worn, old, and hard. The SLS is still working just fine.

I've read may post that folks dive into the system and replace $1k of stuff with ok results to someone replace just the accumulators and it was a night a day difference. I'd like some input for what to tackle first for the most impact and work from that point (all the parts seems resonable in cost...so this shouldn't be a factor). Also ease of job would be nice too. Anybody in MN wanna help for food and beer:) Thanks for any input.

J. M. van Swaay 05-01-2012 04:21 PM

I had a front end clunk in my 95 E320 wagon. Cured after replacing front sway bar bushings. Inexpensive parts and about an hour labor....... Think I'd try this first.

J. M. van Swaay

ps2cho 05-01-2012 05:34 PM

More than likely its either the sway bar bushings or the idler arm bushings.

JimFreeh 05-02-2012 06:29 AM

The rear toe in links are wear items, and can cause the car to have a "self steer" issue. For the front clunk, check the sway bar bushings first.

If the rear diff bushings are bad, they can also cause the rear of the car move around a bit, most noticably when shifting under accelleration.

jim

berryrice 05-02-2012 09:43 AM

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I will definitely replace the sway bar bushings and brackets. Seems like a inexpensive and easier task.

I've read some swaying like its always windy post in the past. Mine just sways a lot past 60mph...hard to keep a straight line. It seems like it most likely from the rear...it also feels like it too. Control Arms?

Ph2cho, I saw you replaced many if not all you rear control arms...what did you notice when you changed them?

ps2cho 05-02-2012 01:07 PM

The rubbers were toast...its more noticeable once they are completely removed. They go bad with age, not mileage. Mine were cracked and done @ 70k on the odo, I just didn't get around to doing them until 105k.

It stopped moving around under acceleration on the freeway (Accelerate it drove to the right, foot off throttle it would return to the left) and blowing in the wind. That's my best description of the change.

FWIW, unless you live in the rust belt, your brackets are probably fine. You will see the bushings are probably bulging and that's when you know its time to replace.

EDIT: Here's my thread with photos for the control arms:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/290923-why-w124s-blow-away-wind-wander.html

berryrice 05-05-2012 12:47 AM

After getting under the wagon last night, I'm thinking of replacing the front control arms as well. Looks like the front control arms have the ball and bushings all in one unit (FEBI). I saw the DIY for the older w124 where you can replace just the ball joints but should this job be a little "easier" as it's all one unit and I don't have to deal with removing old ball joints and pressing the bushings out/in? Any special tools needed?

vstech 05-05-2012 08:55 AM

you will need a special spring compressor. the ebay one for MB's will work, but it'll be difficult to deal with. the short shaft official Klann (that I happen to have for rent:wink3: ) is really needed.
be sure to really look over the rear bushings on the diff. they are small, and easily damaged.

berryrice 05-08-2012 02:16 AM

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Just got my Meyle Rear Control Arms kit with all the hardware and sway bar bushings this afternoon. I had a few hours, so in went in the sway bar bushings. The old ones were original and I didn't realize how soft and swollen they were. The new ones were rock hard. Check out the photo...the bushings on the end of the sway bar were almost twice the size as the new one. I did boil and used soapy water to get them on. Easy job but it took me about 1 1/2 hrs. I took some pics of the old versus the new bushings. I just took the wagon out on a test drive...railroad crossings to rough road sections...low and behold..no front end clunk! I'll be diving in to the 8 rear control arms in a few weeks...can't wait!


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