So after test driving cars the past few weeks, I've decided to hang on to my wagon for a bit longer. I've pretty much done the biggies for it myself (main wire harness, head gasket (had a shop do this), and transmission reverse rebuild) and many small things since owning for 8 years. The suspension has not been touched since I've owned it. I could always "live" with my suspension but I want to get it better.

Suspension Issues:
1. Clunkly feeling over potholes, seams in roads, cracks
2. Swaying in the wind feeling when at highway speeds

What I've done:
1. First year I bought the car I replaced the front shocks with OEM shocks with the shock bumpers. Helped the clunkiness a little but not as much as I hoped. But hasn't really got worse since then.

What I've read to replace:
1. Accumulators
2. Rear Control Arms (eight I think)
3. Front control arms (I read mixed info on this but I think my 95 does not have replaceable

Under the Car Inspection:
Nothing seemed really "loose" or obviously cracking. Just all looks worn, old, and hard. The SLS is still working just fine.

I've read may post that folks dive into the system and replace $1k of stuff with ok results to someone replace just the accumulators and it was a night a day difference. I'd like some input for what to tackle first for the most impact and work from that point (all the parts seems resonable in cost...so this shouldn't be a factor). Also ease of job would be nice too. Anybody in MN wanna help for food and beer Thanks for any input.

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I had a front end clunk in my 95 E320 wagon. Cured after replacing front sway bar bushings. Inexpensive parts and about an hour labor....... Think I'd try this first.

J. M. van Swaay

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1994 E320 Wagon, 230,000 miles
1995 E320 Sedan, 106,000 miles
1994 E500 Sedan, 79,000 miles

More than likely its either the sway bar bushings or the idler arm bushings.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

The rear toe in links are wear items, and can cause the car to have a "self steer" issue. For the front clunk, check the sway bar bushings first.

If the rear diff bushings are bad, they can also cause the rear of the car move around a bit, most noticably when shifting under accelleration.

jim

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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

I will definitely replace the sway bar bushings and brackets. Seems like a inexpensive and easier task.

I've read some swaying like its always windy post in the past. Mine just sways a lot past 60mph...hard to keep a straight line. It seems like it most likely from the rear...it also feels like it too. Control Arms?

Ph2cho, I saw you replaced many if not all you rear control arms...what did you notice when you changed them?

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The rubbers were toast...its more noticeable once they are completely removed. They go bad with age, not mileage. Mine were cracked and done @ 70k on the odo, I just didn't get around to doing them until 105k.

It stopped moving around under acceleration on the freeway (Accelerate it drove to the right, foot off throttle it would return to the left) and blowing in the wind. That's my best description of the change.

FWIW, unless you live in the rust belt, your brackets are probably fine. You will see the bushings are probably bulging and that's when you know its time to replace.

EDIT: Here's my thread with photos for the control arms:
This is why W124's blow away in the wind / wander

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

After getting under the wagon last night, I'm thinking of replacing the front control arms as well. Looks like the front control arms have the ball and bushings all in one unit (FEBI). I saw the DIY for the older w124 where you can replace just the ball joints but should this job be a little "easier" as it's all one unit and I don't have to deal with removing old ball joints and pressing the bushings out/in? Any special tools needed?

you will need a special spring compressor. the ebay one for MB's will work, but it'll be difficult to deal with. the short shaft official Klann (that I happen to have for rent ) is really needed.
be sure to really look over the rear bushings on the diff. they are small, and easily damaged.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Just got my Meyle Rear Control Arms kit with all the hardware and sway bar bushings this afternoon. I had a few hours, so in went in the sway bar bushings. The old ones were original and I didn't realize how soft and swollen they were. The new ones were rock hard. Check out the photo...the bushings on the end of the sway bar were almost twice the size as the new one. I did boil and used soapy water to get them on. Easy job but it took me about 1 1/2 hrs. I took some pics of the old versus the new bushings. I just took the wagon out on a test drive...railroad crossings to rough road sections...low and behold..no front end clunk! I'll be diving in to the 8 rear control arms in a few weeks...can't wait!

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