Driver's Door Lock Replaced ...****in' Thing Doesn't Activate Vacuum Switch in Door
 

Hello Guys,

Please excuse my ****in' bad mood. I proudly installed a new (VIN coded) driver's door lock in my trusty 190E as the old one wouldn't twist anymore. After I finished, I smugly closed the door on the car, then confidently attempted to lock the car from the driver's side door, turned the key in the lock, it turned and ... NOTHING HAPPENED :mad:

So for some reason the new door lock isn't working with the vacuum switch for some reason. I've already searched and found some threads on removing the lock and such, but I can't find anything relating the door lock to the vacuum switch.

Any help would be very much appreciated. I'm hoping to use the car on Monday to get to work.

- Mike

Check the wiring and vacuum hose to the solenoid on the door latch (inside door). Next would be to remove the latch and verify all is connected, or if the solenoid needs replacing.

Thanks Hirnbeiss,

I'm thinking it's the solenoid too. For instance, when I lock the car now, everything locks except the driver's door. I can't push the lock plunger up or down on the driver's door, like I can on the others to unlock or lock the car. It seems restricted or seized. Inserting a key into the trunk or passenger side will yield the same results, but not the driver's door.

I'm pretty sure I have the new lock installed properly and it is seated into the white circular ring inside the door, but you'd think it would at least let me get into the driver's door from using the key?

I'm pretty sure the vacuum lines are good as the system is strong otherwise. I'll check the wiring next. Is the fact that the lock pin/plunger on the top of the door panel won't go up and down a tell tale sign the solenoid is broken?

-Mike

If the plunger won't move, it sounds like something could be blocking the linkages, but it could be a seized solenoid too. Did it work before you swapped the tumbler? If so, that hints that the tumbler wasn't installed into the lock correctly, but I don't know how.

From my experience you are not supposed to be able to push the lock up & down on the driver's door. You put much pressure on pushing it down, and you will break the lock! It should only work with the key.

Answer
 

It sounds like you have a linkage issue.
Check that the lock T rod seated into the latch.

The driver door lock button should not go down with the driver door open.

.

I appreciate all the responses, guys. Thanks.

So it appears my central locking system is beginning to heal itself.

When I unlock/lock the car from the trunk or passenger's side, it will now unlock the whole car, driver's door included.

So I'm thinking my dim-witted installation of the lock tumbler is the culprit. The new lock tumbler doesn't seem to be interacting with the linkage to the vacuum solenoid. I can't see much inside the door, but it appears that white circular thing the end of the tumbler goes into just spins right or left freely, without any resistance.

So the linkage to the solenoid is broken or it isn't meeting up with the tumbler properly. Any tips?

You might try swapping the driver side door w/ the passenger door. It only takes a few minutes to do it, and then see how it works.

I'm not going to swap locks, I'm thinking I'll leave well enough alone with the passenger's side and trunk. Those areas have never been touched, and my thinking is: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Would anyone know how the white plastic ring the lock tumbler arm connects to interacts with the vacuum solenoid? Are they directly linked? Maybe that's my problem. I don't think the plastic ring is connected to anything - that I can see anyway.

-Mike

There are pics of two different kinds of actuator connectors in this link.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/316926-door-vacuum-pods-lock-unlock.html