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-   -   I need the forum's input on manual engine cooling (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/319665-i-need-forums-input-manual-engine-cooling.html)

ps2cho 06-29-2012 03:01 PM

bumping this thread since I may end up doing this.

Found this:

He actually uses an MB pump:

Radiator Mist - beat the overheat - YotaTech Forums

stormyc88 07-01-2012 02:42 PM

does anybody know if the cool harness works when plugged into the green 3-prong sensor? Jim Forgione's instructions only mention to find the blue 2-prong sensor, but my car only has the 3-prong one.

Air&Road 07-02-2012 07:54 AM

If you have an overheating problem, you would be much better served by finding the cause of the problem and curing it. If you do NOT have an overheating problem, be happy and don't worry about it.

lsmalley 07-10-2012 01:50 AM

After running with the resistor for about 3 weeks I realized that my ac would cycle off and on.....wasn't sure what the problem was at first, but it was cycling of and on every 30 sec to a minute. I removed the resistor yesterday and now the compressor stays on and car gets extremely cold. I will leave off the resistor. The engine temp does still rise once again to about 105-110*C, but when I'm driving with an outside ambient temp of 114*F I'd much rather be cooler.

lsmalley 06-28-2013 03:22 AM

Manual engine cooler complete!
 
3 Attachment(s)
Ok guys, last summer I talked about making this manual engine cooler and I have done it. I alson have the manual high speed aux fan switch on my dash which also helps. Here are some pictures....as a side note, the pictures show only one vinyl tube feeding between the radiator and condenser, but I have installed a second washer pump into the washer reservoir port that was plugged with a closed rubber grommet, now I actually have 2 pumps and 2 hoses going between the radiator and condenser that spray water. When I use this in conjunction with the high speed fans it lowers the temp of the engine below the 100*C mark even wih the a/c on and the outside ambient temp at about 110*F. Only need to press the button a few times or either hold the button down for continuous water injection if the temp gauge is really high and the engine temp will begin cooling down within 20-30 seconds. I had to splice into the plug to add the second washer pump, since I took out my aux water pump, I used that harness since it is the exact same plug as the washer pump plug. I plugged the ends of the clear tubing and puncturd holes randomly on all sides of both holes to get better water misting/dispersion and to avoid having hot spots if I would've made the holes uniform.

oldsinner111 06-28-2013 06:54 AM

nnice Ismalley. Are you running a m104 or 103 turbo? did you go to colder spark plugs?

JamesDean 06-28-2013 08:20 AM

It would be pretty cool if you automated it, when engine temp = X, spray on the radiator for X seconds.

lsmalley 06-28-2013 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldsinner111 (Post 3167229)
nnice Ismalley. Are you running a m104 or 103 turbo? did you go to colder spark plugs?

Not for intake or turbo....I did this because of the climate I live in and the outside ambient temp can reach 120* on some days, but mostly triple digits are a bit lower. So what this does is when my engine starts to get hot, I press the button and it shoots a dispersed mist of water filling the area between the radiator and condenser and the fans pull in the cooler air/water and cools down the engine.


James Dean, I agree, but I like having the manual controls because sometimes its just a few squirts and other times I'll hold the button down for a few seconds giving the radiator and condenser a nice spray to help bring the temp down faster.

JamesDean 06-29-2013 03:36 PM

I see no reason why you couldnt have both automatic spritzing and manual. I think it would be a fun project to do.

How long do you hold the button down for and how long does it take to achieve a good temperature? Like if it was a 100C, how long would you hold it down for until it reached 80C?

lsmalley 06-29-2013 04:21 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean (Post 3167993)
I see no reason why you couldnt have both automatic spritzing and manual. I think it would be a fun project to do.

How long do you hold the button down for and how long does it take to achieve a good temperature? Like if it was a 100C, how long would you hold it down for until it reached 80C?

For the temp to drop down 20* I can hold the button down for about 10 seconds with high speed fans on and the temp would be down 20* in about 30-45 seconds. Never really timed it, but it drops pretty quickly. I just added another legnth of tubing to it and now I have tubing running between the radiator and condenser in a sort of an "S".....going back and forth. In the picture the red and blue lines represent the hoses between the radiator and condenser. Water sprays out from the entire legnth of the hose through tiny holes that create the mist that brings the temp down. Very easy to do. Just use distilled water to avoid mineral build up.

oldsinner111 06-30-2013 06:11 AM

I went from water pump fan to electric on my 300SD I hardly use the fan except when in the city,and its manual.I'm doing the same for my W140

lsmalley 07-01-2013 02:33 AM

Latest upgrade to manual cooling
 
4 Attachment(s)
So instead of running the tubes between the radiator and condenser I decided on another upgrade. I purchased 2 180 degree sprinkler nozzles from Lowe's with a 1/4 inch diameter barbed fitting and I purchased 1/4 inch clear tubing. I mounted the nozzles over the radiator and condenser pointing downward between the fans and now I get a nice uniform, spray that covers the entire radiator and condenser with considerably more with than my previous set up. Cooling the engine now takes less time. included are some photos and a diagram.


Materials used: *For dual nozzles, this can also be accomplished with one nozzle*

1.) 1/4 inch diameter clear tubing (legnth depends on diastance from washer reservoir to radiator)

2.) 2- 180 degree plasic sprinkler heads with 1/4 diameter barbed end

3.) Zip ties

4.) Check valve and Y- splitter tubing (optional)


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