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#1
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Timing chain master link question for the Pros
Am I being too anal or old fashioned? The master that came with the new timing chain for the 560 contained a "C" clip type master. I'd rather have the crimped style for peace of mind, but it seems they are unavailable. I called the two closest dealers and all the have in stock are the clip type. I talked with my local Indie, and he simply loves the clip type, as long a sthey are the two "c" clips rather than the single horseshoe type.
Since I cannot find a crimp type, can I rest assured the clips will hold? They clicked solidly when I snapped them on, and I have them set up with the open end of the C trailing. I really need to feel better about them before I button the things ups.
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Mike Tangas '73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72 '02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis 2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel Non illegitemae carborundum. |
#2
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Over the years I have used the single ‘long’ type C-clip on 4 different V-8 engines, and the 2 'individual clips' type on another one - all without any problems. A statistically small sampling for sure, but I don't know of anyone that has reported one coming loose; at least if they’re installed properly.
Off topic: It seems strange to me that all the 617 diesel chains are crimp type only; with such short chains, it seems like they would be a good candidate for the clips… RTH |
#3
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The master clip that came with the chain, is used to connect the new chain to the old. this way you can roll the new one in. Mercedes makes a special tool to crimp and make the chain continouse.
The master clip is not intended to be used on the new chain. John |
#4
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John,
Normally I would fully agree with your statement, however, everything I learned today shows that the clips are intended for duty use. I couldn't even obtain the crimped type link at the dealership (and I have the crimping tool sitting on the box). I'm using them, reluctantly. I hope RTH's small sampling and the local Indies similar comments, echoed by two dealerships hold true. I'll be keeping my fingers crossed for the first 50K miles or so.
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Mike Tangas '73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72 '02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis 2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel Non illegitemae carborundum. |
#5
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Then his chain would have come with 2 links. One with slots on the end of the pins for clips and another link that can be crimped. Unless the slotted pins can be crimped.
Did the end piece fit loosely over the end of the pins, or did you have to press it on? Mine new chain came with one plastic parts bag that only had a link and an end piece (cap). When I placed the end piece on, I was such a tight fit I had to press it into place it on. Then I crimped the rivets.
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Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) |
#6
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I replaced my chain 15 K miles ago, using a master link with the two little "c" type clips.
No problems yet. Knock wood! Another hint - do the oil tube plastic guys while you are in there. Cheap parts and easy job while the vavle covers are off. Have fun!
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1989 560SEL (172k) 1989 325IC (122K) 2004 Suzuki Volusia LE (3500 miles) 2005 Yamaha Road Star (20 K miles) |
#7
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Mike, I am about to replace my chain on my 500 euro with 280K on it and am planning to take the timing cover off to replace the bottom guides to assure that the left bottom one doesn't take the chain out and the head with it. And I was planning on finding a continuous chain. I wonder how hard that will be?
Woody |
#8
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Crimped Chains
I'm considering replacing the timing chain on my 260e also. One thing I am concerned about is improperly crimping the master link. It seems to me that if it is crimped too little, or too much, the integrity could be lost.
For amatuers like myself, would a snap link be the safest bet? |
#9
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Me too
For MikeTangas
1. I think it’s what ever Mercedes feels for that day what link to put in their kit, or it probably varies from what model you have, but don’t quote me on it. At one time I just thought the "C" clip type was phased out by the crimped type. 2. When I did the chain on my 87 190E 2.3 it came with the crimped on type, and I had to get an extra master link to use for the “old chain to new chain” thing. 3. Funny at the time I was in your shoes but the opposite, I was looking for the "C" clip type to use for the old chain to new chain part of the process only. I’d also call around but nobody had the "C" clip type for my car, so I just got another crimped on type master($0.91). I remember the parts guy telling me the chain should come with one already. I told him what it was going to be use for, he quickly nodded with the “you know what you’re doing look” and gave me the part. 4. During the time for installation I just push the link in but didn’t crimp it, it’s a tight fit but not permanent (if you have a crimping tool you know what I mean), rotate the engine, took that link off and trashed it, then installed the link that came with the chain, push in then crimp it. All done. Oh I use tie wraps to keep the chain and sprocket together so it won’t jump. For John Plut If you have the proper crimping tool the manual say 35NM Thai GI sends...
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GI but not GI Joe They call me "The Thai GI" Thai in the US Arsenal |
#10
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Mike,
You should make sure the closed end of the clip is facing the direction of travel. That way it won`t get knocked off. John |
#11
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One more thing: If you use the c-clip type link, take a look at the c-clip. Usually one side will have rounded edges and one side sharp. Put the sharp edges to the outside. This will give you just a touch more metal to metal surface where it is needed most.
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