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#1
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E320 shaking at idle
95 E320, wagon 146K
All of a sudden today my wife says the car is shaking at idle at intersections. It is shaking in park or neutral noticeably, but much more so when in drive, stopped with brake applied. Don't notice much when driving. The motor seems to be idling OK, I don't seem to hear any missing or rough running. I did some searching but can't tell much. Seems to me like a motor mount but I am far from an expert and wanted some opinions. FYI, harness is original and I've read a bit about coil packs and plugs, plug wires, MAF, OVP. No idea what the heck most of that is or where it is, but the motor seems to 'run' OK. Thoughts of where to start (is there something obvious I could tell about either a broken motor mount or any of the above items?). I haven't had a change to dig around on it yet. |
#2
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Right side motor mount (passenger side) I use to check the mounts with a 13mm socket if you cant' slide it between bottom of the mount and frame the motor mount is bad. I guess you have no shake in reverse and idle?
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#3
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Thanks.
I have mild shake at idle in neutral and reverse, much more in drive. I will get under it tomorrow. I did a test with it in drive and brake held then rev the motor. The motor torques about maybe 1 inch (drivers side up,pass side down) in drive. In reverse, it seems to be less the opposite way but still raises up maybe a half inch. Hard to estimate. I don't know if that helps diagnose or not. I also notice that my tackometer is registering around 700 RPM and does not go up at all upon revving or driving. It has done this before but usually tops at 1900 and doesn't go above even though the motor is still acccelerating but is responsive on the bottom end. It seems to be different now just sitting at idle RPMs on the taq. Not sure if this is related or another random thing. I pulled the MAF wire off and it changes nothing if that helps diagnose. I checked the OVP fuse (15A) and it looks good assuming I got the right thing behind the battery. no problem starting or anything and seems to not be missing to my ear. ugh!! |
#4
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Sure sound like the motor mounts.
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#5
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I got a couple pics of the mounts. Hopefully I can manage to link these up. Kind of hard to see, but maybe this will help confirm they are shot. I think these are probably original.
Drivers side (2 pics) Passenger side (2 pics) Video in next post (I hope) |
#6
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time for new mounts!
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#7
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Trying to post the youtube video. Not sure this has a chance of working. If not, apologies.
Maybe can try this link if it doesn't work 95 Mercedes e320 motor mounts - YouTube |
#8
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Thanks for the opinions. I just wanted to document the symptoms as best I could. Also was wondering if anyone else can hear and missing or something in the motor that my untrained ear isn't hearing in the video along with the motor flexing.
Much appreciate the comments (and any more). |
#9
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Do the transmission mount while you are at it.
__________________
1989 300ce 129k ( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone) 1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus 1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k 1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it [/SIGPIC] |
#10
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Update: Before swapping out the engine mounts, I have been chasing the possibility of an electrical problem. I had a couple codes on the built in LED (4,5,10) and a couple on pin 8 (code 4) and 14 (code 11). The EGR code on the built in has been there forever so I don't think has much to do with things (just my untrained opinion as a disclaimer). The codes for the MAF on the built in and pin 8 are likely a result of me disconnecting the MAF wire while I was goofing around trying to see if anything changed. The pin 14 code 11, I have no idea what this is all about. I have all codes cleared now and nothing has come back after about 50 miles of driving so far. Mr Dalton has been helping me sort through this diagnosis so thanks to him for sure. I've actually learned a ton during the process so it's been good all things considered.
I replaced plugs and the resisters on the bottom of the 3 coil packs just in case (that was all needed anyway, the plugs were really worn down on the electrodes). I put in F8DC4 bosch copper plugs. So back to the engine mounts and transmission mount as the cause of my shaking??? Again, I can't seem to hear the motor missing and certainly not consistent with the amount of shaking I feel in the cockpit but again disclaimer I really don't have a clue what I'm doing!). Anyway, still got the shakes on the motor. I am going to go ahead and replace the engine mounts and transmission mounts and see if that helps or not. If not, that will be one more thing done and off the to do list with this car. I worry that at the end of the day, it may well be my wire harness. I am thinking to do the head gasket and harness this coming Christmas when I have some time off so I hope it is not that acting up this time around. I may have to take it in if the mounts don't fix it, but I really would like to solve this on my own (well with forum help!) So, any recommended brands on the engine mounts? I see fastlane has FEQ, corteco, lemoforder, Phoenix listed with a fair distribution of price among them. I read somewhere Phoenix was OEM, but not sure if today's is the same as they were in 1995. Suggestions to go with or as important to avoid? |
#11
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Quote:
Spit64, this is exactly what I have, once the car warms up (to above 85 on the temp gauge) the shake goes away, and again nothing in reverse or idle. Should I plan on doing all the mounts or does this indicate that it's one specific side or mount? NP
__________________
"If it's not BLOWN, it sucks" 1998 C280 Sport - Member 744 Crew 1988 Toyota MR2-Kompressor(No. 3) 168K+ Miles Prior MB Cars 1974 450SLC & 1985 190E 2.3 Click This Link - IOS, Greece - Get Your Phreak On |
#12
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Stick with lemfoerder for the mounts.
__________________
2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#13
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You got the torque on passenger side in forward gear so the problem should be the passenger mount. The funny thing is that you say the shake or vibrations goes away when the engine is in the working temperature around 85 you could have another problem no engine misfire or anything like that? I like to change both sides when I do the motor mounts if there is a old car.
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#14
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I had the same problem...91 300E 200K. Replaced the motor mounts and shaking in drive with brakes engaged stopped. I actually had replaced the engine and when I took it out the old motor, the mounts fell apart and one disintegrated into bits.
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#15
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Great to hear some reassurance on this. I haven't done anything yet (we have a spare car fortunately). I have some summer travel plans but I think I'll swap out the motor and trans mounts when I get back in town. I'll update whatever the outcome. So many of these posts seem to never have a final conclusion so hard to tell what the ultimate fixes are for so many. Thanks again!
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