Shifter gets stuck in P position
 

On my 1996 E320 the shifter gets stuck in P. I removed everything around the shifter housing (the whole middle console including air vents to the rear seats)
and see that the shifter is blocked in P position by a hook, which is released by a cable, which in turn pulled by the brake pedal. The situation now is the cable is not pulled when the brake pedal is kicked down therefore does not release the hook
http://i787.photobucket.com/albums/y...0/IMG_1280.jpg

My temporary fix is making the hook permanently open by pulling the cable and screwing it tighly, meaning the shifter is now moving freely in all positions until the problem is tackled.

Certainly I have to fix the problem but until then my questions:
1. Does my car has a brake light switch? If yes is the brake light switch the cause that the hook releasing cable is not pulled by the brake pedal or is it a mechanical problem?

2. can I drive (relatively) safely with the hook now always open/disabled? At least for the drive to my Indy. Of course I have to make sure when starting the engine that the shifter is in P.

3. What's the function of the other longer black cable? which pulls a lever in the rear of the shifter housing, in the picture the lever is connected to a spring. What mechanism activates that cable?

Your inputs are greatly appreciated, thanks!

Can't you start in P or N? I don't know anything about that shifter, but you ought to be able to confirm proper operation in your driveway.

I wonder if that shifter can be retrofitted to a W123. One of the things I don't like about my TD is that my toddler can shift it out of Park if someone forgets to set the park brake.

Yes, I can start the engine while it is stuck in P. Now with the "daring" temporary fix by lifting the hook I can shift now. Took the car for a short drive around the block.

My concern is with the fixated cable holding the hook up, what happens when the brake pedal pulls the cable more while the car is running? which is not happening as I can see, but if it happens?

Can you just disconnect it?

If you're worried, and can't make sense of its operation, and therefore can't judge whether it is safe or not, just have it towed, or have the shop send someone over.

I was hoping that someone knowledgeable can give more insights. I just bled $800.- for the fuel pump and filter replacement and would like to minimize the repair cost for this one. Any DIY suggestion is more than appreciated.

Yeah, sorry, I don't have one like yours.

Is the cable broken? That's what it sounds like, in which case pressing pressing the pedal can't affect it anymore.

The other cable I believe is the interlock for the ignition switch (can't/shouldn't be able to remove the key without the trans in P), do you want to verify that this part of the system is working? Try shutting the car off in drive and removing the key, you shouldn't be able to do that.

There should be an adjuster on the cable near the brake pedal. Also possibly the cable became disconnected on the pedal side.

Answer
 

One of the following are damaged or broken at the pedal assembly.

wire cable, pedal assembly to lock-out lever
MB# 2102600151
List $79.00

Your description leads me to believe the cable is OK, but the lever broke.
This plastic LEVER is held in place by a C-clip, and a small hooked pre-tension spring, an easy fifteen minute DIY.
Only one of these is used, and it varies depending on brake pedal.

Lever, parking interlock mechanism
MB# 2022920031
up to model year 1996
List $6.00

Lever, parking interlock mechanism
MB# 2022920231
List $6.00

Lever, parking interlock mechanism
MB# 2022920331
List $6.00

.

$6 fix. That's like winning the Lottery

Thanks a lot, I'm going to give it a try.