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#1
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About to tackle the Rear Arms W124 DIY?
I bought the Meyle arm kit for the rear of my 300E. I am going to be replacing everything tomorrow evening.
Anything I should watch out for? What is the "correct" order for R&R'ing the links? I do have the Klann style spring compressor on hand.
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http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...-RESIZED-1.jpg 1991 300E - 212K and rising fast... |
#2
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No need for the compressor...just support under ball joint.
Some are a little tricky to reach. Make sure to get the top arm the correct way up otherwise it will hit the sway bar.
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#3
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I did this on my 190E a few years ago. Some of the inner bolts can be a pain to access. Especially with the tools that I had. I ended up installing adjustable camber arms and using some stainless steel bolts and nuts. Normal hexheads not the triple square stuff.
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k |
#4
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Where did you get the meyle kit? Is it all of the links for the rear suspension?
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#5
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Look here
Quote:
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#6
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Yes. The Meyle kit includes absolutely everything. I didn't care for the triple squarebolts everywhere, but luckily I had the tool. Rear lower control arm and subframe bushings are separate jobs for the rear.
I just finished the rear arm job this afternoon. The first side took me nearly 6hrs, but I was tired. The other side only took 3hrs, including pressing in 4 eccentric camber bushings on each side. Nothing really tricky, just lots of tight spaces as mentioned. Drives like new! Front control arms are next.......
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http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...-RESIZED-1.jpg 1991 300E - 212K and rising fast... |
#7
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Quote:
Any special tools? Tips,tricks?? |
#8
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Support the bottom of the rear control arm after you've jacked it up. Loosen all the bolts/nuts first. Then start removing and replacing one arm at a time, it should be obvious the logical order to R&R. Be careful to pay attention to which way the arms are orientated before removal because it can get confusing, I took pictures.
Watch out for stripping bolts and nuts, the spaces are so tight you are screwed if you do. If I did it again I would spray everything with PB blaster the night before. You will need a good 3/8" 6PT 19mm socket. You won't have the room to use anything 1/2" unfortunately. A good assortment of 17/19mm box wrenches. Definitely will need a good set of triple square bits. Be sure to tighten all the bolts with the car suspension loaded, I used ramps, but also had the alignment place double check the torque on everything when they had it on the lift. It's a pretty straightforward job.
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http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...-RESIZED-1.jpg 1991 300E - 212K and rising fast... |
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