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 Renew caliper bolts? The rotors are warped on my '90 300SE. My Haynes manual says I should use new caliper bolts. Is this necessary? I'm sure they don't cost much, but I wont be able to change them today, (no big deal). | 
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 I posted same question recently after the fact. The only response I got was from Benzmac stating to use Loctite when putting back on.  Not sure, but I don't believe that these bolts are generally replaced in the real world.  (At least not by the techs that I asked after my post). Post any feedback you get elsewhere as this should have been an issue that was addressed by everyone that has ever replaced pads themselves on a sliding caliper setup (esp. if they read a manual at the time (Both of mine recommend bolt replacement)). Although understanding safety/liability concerns (prudence will dictate advice) I would still invite others to respond on this issue. Also, additional clarification on strength/color of loctite formula to use would be appreciated (red or blue? Both listed on prior posts on subject (search= bolt caliper)). Further, are these bolts on Fastlane or Partsshop? If not, does anyone know part #'s for W124 chassis? | 
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 On my C class the OEM pads come with caliper bolts that have a blue Loctite/anti-seize coating on the threads. There is a specified torque rating for these bolts also. I don't think this is a case of bolts getting stretched as in head bolts only being used once. I think because of the safety issue with something as important as brakes, these caliper bolts are intended to be installed as close to original spec as possible. On another list a week or so back, an owner related the story of what happened when a repair shop forgot to tighten the caliper bolts properly. Luckily he was able to diagnose a repair in a hotel parking lot, but the resulting brake failure on the road was bad news. | 
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