Fuel Pumps.

I finally got my pumps delivered this week and installed them today. In my haste to see if it worked, I forgot the fuel line I loosened to check the pressure and had some pretty good feedback that the pressure problem had been found. She started up after a few tries and idled surprisingly smoothly for a car that hasn't been run in long time.

So the ABS light stays on, the climate control system isn't working and the antenna won't come up, so time to dive the fuse box. I'm guessing a new "klima" relay is in my future.

Also is it normal for the windshield washer resevior to be hot? As in steam coming out of it?

Dan

Glad it's running.

For A/C make a code reader and check pin 7:

300TE Idle too high - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

Here are the codes:
A/C Air Conditioning
DTC Readout Possible Cause of Failure
1 No fault found
2 In car temperature sensor, short circuit
3 In car temperature sensor, open circuit
4 Outside temperature sensor, short circuit
5 Outside temperature sensor, open circuit
6 Evaporator temperature sensor, short circuit
7 Evaporator temperature sensor, open circuit
8 Heater core temperature sensor, short-circuit
9 Heater core sensor, open
12 Engine coolant temperature sensor, short circuit
13 Engine coolant temperature sensor, open circuit
30 Coolant pump, short circuit
31 Duo valve short circuit/open
33 A/C compressor control module short circuit
34 Auxiliary fan relay faulty
50 Switchover valve unit, faulty at between pins 5 and 8 (7 connections)
51 Switchover valve unit, faulty between pins 8 and 7 (7 connections)
52 Switchover valve unit, faulty between pins 8 and 3(7 connections)
54 Switchover valve unit, faulty between pins 8 and 4 (7 connections)
55 Switchover valve unit, faulty between pins 8 and 6(7 connections)
56 Switchover valve unit, faulty between pins 8 and 2(7 connections)
57 Switchover valve unit, faulty between pins 8 and 1(7 connections)

It cannot hurt anything to replace KLIMA relay if you want to and you may just replace all the fuses in the fusebox with the copper/brass looking ones and there is a strip fuse just outside the fuse box to look at too.

No codes for ABS.

Windshield washer reservoir has a heating element. Some will bypass when damaged but in cold climates your fluid may then freeze. When heating element goes bad sometimes coolant can enter the reservoir.

Also you may want to change transmission fluid (Dexron III/Mercon - unless converted to synthetic already) and filter including draining torque converter, air filter, coolant flush (zerex G05) and thermostat, and maybe differential fluid (NAPA SAE 80w-85w-90). If you really want to then the O-2 sensor, coil and temp sensor for the ECU (top of head by firewall - last one).

You did not say what kind of plugs you put in but non resistor are best, like these:
Plugs: clubplug.net
Stock Number...Part Number...Manufacture...Description.......Price
5031...............T20EP-U.........DENSO..........COPPER PLUG....$1.61 US

And lastly the fuel mixture adjustment should be close to 50% duty cycle, with good response just off idle.

Thanks for the help. I may try to build the tester.

Both a transmission flush and diff service are in the plans. I used Bosch plugs. The motor is humming along quite nicely, too be honest, much better than expected.

Other than the fan switch and the fuse, are there any other points of failure (other than fan itself)? Does the climate control relay have a role in fan control or the a/c compressor only?

Thanks,
Dan

The ABS light turned out to be the OVP. The fuse element didn't look fried, but didn't look right (cloudy) so I replaced it and the ABS light went out. It also seems to idle smoother now. The heater fan is still troubling me, so I have a few more fan questions.

There is still no air flowing. The fuse in the fuse box is good and shows good continuity across it. The standalone strip fuse outside of the fuse box has good continuity. Inside, the climate control panel buttons are illuminated when the headlights are turned on and the a/c compressor is engaging when the temperature controller is manipulated with the engine running (audible/indicated RPM shift). When I removed the climate control module from the dash, there were no obvious smoking guns. Two multiple pin connectors (L) and (R) were disconnected and tested for volts and cont. On the left, there was no voltage noted testing any of the receptacle combinations. On the right voltage was noted on receptacles 11 and 12 only.

Testing the climate control module male pins, on the left no two combinations indicated continuity regardless of and button position. On the right pin 2 would indicate continuity with pins 6,8,5 and 7 regardless of button selected.

So unless any of this points to something, I guess the next step is to access the fan motor and see if it is getting power to it. So what is the best way to get to the fan motor?

Dan

The regulator is underneath it.

PeachPartsWiki: Blower Motor Removal

Blower Motor and Regulator

Attached Thumbnails

       

This looks fun...

Seriously though, thank you very much. I really appreciate it.

Dan

When you find the blower leads, just put 12v to it to see if it fires, if it does, it's the regulator. It's triangle shaped, located under the blower.

__________________
Eugene

10 E63 AMG
93 300te 4matic
07 BMW X3
14 Ford F-150 Fx2

I'm sure this is stressed in the instructions, but really be careful not to crack the windshield when manipulating the wiper arm. Never damaged one myself but seen it happen in the shop a few times.

__________________
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