99 E300TD Intake Manifold Removal
 

After I removed 14 torx bolts which secure the intake to engine appears that some there are additional bolts that keep the manifold in place (from under it). Looking at a sketch from AllData, appears that I need to unbolt the EGR pipe and EGR valve before the manifold will come out.
From the drawing seems that I need to go under the car, remove the splash shield and by using a 2-3 feet long extension the ERG bolts might be reached. Is this true?
I need to replace the glow plug. Should I use a regular Bosch glow plug or should I go for a Duraterm glow plug? It is true that they will last longer than 65,000 miles? Also, should I replace all glow plugs or just the one that failed?
Looking forward to your feedback. Sincerely, Pat

I forgot to ask - should I replace the intake manifold gasket as well?
Pat

the only thing i can help you on is that you should replace all the glow plugs. That is what i was advised with my 83 300SD. do you really want to do all this over again if one of them fails? just replace them all and have peice of mind. Also, if the gasket is only a couple bucks why not replace it, again, it's not worth taking the time to do over again if you can prevent the problem now.
Ryan

Should I assume that nobody has tried to remove the intake manifold on a 300td? I am still looking for advise - please let me know how to remove the bottom bolts between ERG and manifold.
Thanks in advance, Pat

Sorry, no. I've had this procedure done on my '98 E300, but it was under warranty at the time, so the dealer handled it. In the US, virtually all the 99 model year cars are still under factory warranty. My wrenching experience with my '98 consists of changing the oil, and nothing else. Have you tried looking in the usenet news group alt.auto.mercedes? I seem to recall such a discussion taking place in the last few months.

A curious question for those who own the 98 or 99 E300D.

Do you know what oil the dealers use? Do you know what oil that came with the car from the factory?

My dealer was never consistent with the oil change ritual. The couple of times I had it in, they used something different every time - none of which struck me as a great choice. Since the factory warranty has expired, I just change the oil myself (with my Topsider, Hah!) using Delvac 1. I change it twice as often as the FSS calls for, which comes to about 7K miles.

- Jim

jcyuhn:

But the dealer is supposed to use a diesel rated synthetic for the FSS diesels, right?

The dealer I went during warranty used Penzoil 5w50. Since I reached 30k miles I do my own oil changes - using Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w50. As far as the glow plugs are concerned the car has 65k and it is no longer in warranty. The quote I got from the dealer to replace 6 glow plugs was $730. I guess it is too much. I got the glow plugs from the BenzBin for $18 each vs. $23 at FastShop or $36 at the dealer. I already removed the splash shield and top bolts. I was trying to get some confirmation from somebody which did this type of job before regarding the bolts under the manifold.

One more think. If you own a 99 TD the fog lamp wiring will get bad. MBUSA issued a new wiring kit for the fog lamps ($26-28 at the dealer). To replace the old one you will need to cut current wire and join the new wire harness. If your car is in warranty will be done at no cost by the dealer I was told.

There is an allen you have to take out underneath the intake , I think it is a 5 allen. If you dont you will break the inlet piece going into intake. Replace all glow plugs with bosch and intake gasket. Make sure you dont have any diesel leaks from the o-rings, if you do replace them all . ( trust me) been there. Good luck:D

Thank a lot Euro.

In addition here is what I found on the alt.auto.mercedes forum posted by Will which has a 98 E300TD I guess at the end of January 2002:

"Tony
Did a plug at new year.

The symptoms sound correct. The glow plug light should come back on if a plug is open circuit, but it could have shorted internally fooling the check system.

On the LH inner wing, behind the washer bottle there is the glow plug control unit. Unplug the connector that feeds the loom under the inlet manifold and check each terminal with respect to ground ( car body). Each plug will be about 0.8 ohm if I remember.

To change a plug you need the car on ramps, remove the under shields from engine and gearbox, remove one allen bolt holding the aluminium air pipe to the EGR valve body and the clamp bolt for the EGR pipe to valve body and remove the clamp. Remove all the torks bolts holding the inlet manifold to head. Pull the vacuum pipe off the EGR valve and disconnect the manifold pressure sensor and remove from the inner wing.
Lift the manifold with a twisting action as this will break the seal to the stainless steel re-usable gasket and the fragile EGR pipe.

Pull the connector from the glow plug and unscrew.

Refitting is the reversal.

About an hours work.

Hope this helps.

Will
E300 TD 1998


Tony
You MUST have the correct glow plugs. Most motor factors will sell you the wrong ones, they are for the old engine. The correct ones are 4.5 inches long with a push on electrical connection.

MB part: A0011592001.
Bosh part: 0250201038

Will"

To remove the intake , you must remove the allen bolt going straight up next to the charge air tube. It requires a 5mm allen
socket (ball allen if possible).From the top,remove the 10mm nut
securing the washer tank and lift it out of your way.Look under the intake from the side just past the center of it and you will see
the EGR tube (silver corugated tube,not as flexible as it looks)
with a clamp holding it on.Completely remove the bolt in the clamp
(a 1/4 drive 10mm swivel socket works great) and remove the clamp.Knock the tube away from the intake just a little,and it will lift right off.

Thank you BWBenzTech. I am pleased that I do not need to reach the allen bolt from under the car. Will make the job much quicker and easier. Thanks again, Pat.

99 E300's
 

I've got a 99 E300, and this is one of the first posts i've seen regarding it, and haven't heard of these problems yet. Actually i've had a few problems on mine, with just 34k miles. Had to have all the injectors replaced (under warranty) because they weren't fogging properly. Had a fuel leak. Had a small coolant leak. Rear shocks had to be replaced. Sunroof tracks/motor replaced. Rattle in the headliner revealed headliner clips too loose (dealer found and fixed, thank god). And the car's computer randomly will say that I have a defective lamp, but nobody can ever find the defective lamp at the dealer. This car has been at about the quality of a yugo at this point. Love how it drives and looks, but i'm hoping i've gotten the little bugs out of the way. This has ALL happened between 21 and 34k. Any thoughts? The dealer's 'diesel' guy who's worked on benzes for years says the engine sounds great and everything is perfect now, etc... Has anyone else experienced problems like this, or what are the common problems to look for?? Hadn't heard the one about the fog lights wiring. Thanks in advance...

Hey LightMan.
For the lamp failure indicator check this.
On the 210 cars (new E class) the tailamps are bad about melting at the contacts for the bulb sockets.
Remove the pink sockets on both tailamps and see if the terminals on the tailight assy itself have melted into the plastic.
You have to look real close as it is'nt real obvious.
Maybe compare to the terminals for other sockets.
This is probably the problem.