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#1
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Are control arm bushings pressed in
I'm changing my control arm bushing on my 1991 190E and the bushings aren't comming out. I know suspension parts are really tight and need a lot to un-do them, and some are a press fit, which means I can't change them by hand. So I was wondering if these are pressed in.
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5 speed '91 190E 2.6 320,000 mi. (new car, fast, smooth as silk six, couldn't find any more Peugeots) 5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.5l Turbo Diesel 266,000 mi. (old car, fast for a diesel, had 2 others) 5 speed '01 Jetta V6 (new wifes car, pretty quick) 5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.2l Turbo Gas 197,000 mi. (wifes car, faster, sadly gone just short of 200k ) 5 speed '83 Yamaha 750 Maxim 14,000 mi. (fastest) 0 speed 4' x 8' 1800 lb Harbor Freight utility trailer (only as fast as what's pulling it) |
#2
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They are usually pressed in, what bushings are you replacing?
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600SEL '91 300E 4Matic '88 240D '83 280SE '77 350SE '73 The most complex systems can fail in the simplest way. Contra verbosus noli contendere verbis, sermo datur cunctis, animi sapientia paucis. i don't believe in the lord! He's never bought me a Mercedes Benz. |
#3
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Daddi, I had to buy my white Mercedes, too. But I still named her "Pearl" (which of course was Janis' nickname).
You can get a nice ball-joint/bushing press kit at Harbor Freight which will do the job on just about all the bushings, except the lower ball joints. DG |
#4
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Quote:
Before this - you will need to either chisel out or grind out the inner sleeve tube that locks both bushings in place. originally the factory tool has a bullet shaped nose that expands that collar to lock the bushings tight. You can try to use a wheel lug for this purpose. Be sure to note the little pimples on their edges, the new ones should be assembled in the same way. They make up for the bushings to act soft or hard.
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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017) |
#5
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I guess I'll have to wait untill I have more time. It also looks like I'll have to take the wishbone out of the car which means dealing with the spring.
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#6
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If removing the spring you MUST use the mercedes type plate+central screw spring compressor. The MB springs are under much higher tension than most cars and will break/fail a normal style compressor and can kill you. They are also in at a slight angle which adds to the danger with a normal compressor.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#7
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I have some outboard style spring compressors I used to change the McPherson shocks in another car and the shocks in my 190E, which didn't need to have the spring removed. Would they work taking out my 190E spring?
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#8
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Jim,
I've done front end rebuilds on both my 124 and my 126 and I would NOT under any circumstances use that type of external spring compressor on the MB springs. As was stated earlier; these springs pack a huge punch and could kill you if not respected. You really need to get your hands on the recommended compressor. I don't want to scare you off the job; because it's not that tough, but you have to have the correct spring compressor to do it safely. Additionally, those controll arm bushings are really in there. You need a big hammer and a big chisel. applying some heat to break them free will help, but watch for the burning rubber fumes (toxic). My buddy who is an MB mechanic would actually burn out the rubber with a torch making the pressed in sides easier to bang out with a hammer and drift. Hope this helps, Out |
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