W124 front end LCA's and Tie Rods replacement - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ps2cho · #1 03-12-2013, 01:08 AM

Wanted to start my progress thread here:
1988 300TE 129k.

I have a popping noise during weight transfer to the front right side. Not sure where it is coming from, but the boots in my tie rods and ball joints are cracked, so going to start there regardless to avoid future catastrophies. have a popping noise during weight transfer to the FL or FR side. Not sure where it is coming from, but the boots in my tie rods and ball joints are cracked, so going to start there regardless to avoid future catastrophies.

Hard decision between sticking Genuine MB, or Lemfoerder...Decided with Lemfoerder since they are OE anyway. After receiving them, the MB part #'s are even stamped on the bushings themselves.

I am using the later model LCA's with the integrated ball joints since this allows for the use of the upgraded 4 pot calipers since there is more clearance. The prior lower control arms have the removable ball joints, but they stick out further which puts the larger calipers within only a few millimeters of touching (probably fine, but peace of mind would be going with the factory engineering design process -- they didn't do it for NO REASON!!!).

While in there, I am also replacing the Strut Mounts and putting new Strut bump stops on too. Last year I replaced the idler arm and sway bar bushings and checked the sway bar brackets since I know the popping can be commonly from that area.

All in all:
2 Tie Rods
1 Drag Link
2 Lower Control Arms
2 Bump stops
2 Strut Mounts.

Tomorrow will be a busy day!
Further photo's to be provided

Hirnbeiss · #2 03-12-2013, 08:10 AM

She should ride like new.

JamesDean · #3 03-12-2013, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ps2cho

I am using the later model LCA's with the integrated ball joints since this allows for the use of the upgraded 4 pot calipers since there is more clearance. The prior lower control arms have the removable ball joints, but they stick out further which puts the larger calipers within only a few millimeters of touching (probably fine, but peace of mind would be going with the factory engineering design process -- they didn't do it for NO REASON!!!).

They, in fact, will need to be ground down so that they clear. I ran into the same problem on my 190E. I bought standard 190E sport control arms. I've got 4-pot calipers. And they rubbed. I was going to send them back but I was having my shop do the install work so I would have been out double for labor so I just had them grind the metal. Worked fine.

Hopefully that helps someone else who might go down the same path as I.

ps2cho · #4 03-12-2013, 04:42 PM

One side down!

JamesDean · #5 03-12-2013, 06:15 PM

You're going to like the way the car rides and drives after this. The 190 was a completely different car.

I also replaced the steering box too. MASSIVE difference.

Zulfiqar · #6 03-12-2013, 09:00 PM

The arms you show have shoulders on the ball joint bosses, those were on the arms that actually have replaceable joints, the ones that cannot be replaced have a pie shaped cross section with no shoulders like that.

The ball joint on those sits further out but slanted inwards - this was more due to the difference in the later model hubs and the wheel offset and also due to shorter springs. e.g. my E300D has larger wheel bearings and ET44 wheels, the hubs look different than an early 6 cyl w124.

btw - the car will become really tight after you are done.

duxthe1 · #7 03-12-2013, 09:22 PM

I've got front struts, tie rods, sway bar ends, and sway bar bushings waiting to go in mine. I'm going to swap in a good used front sway bar while I'm at it. My bar end mounts have been so bad for so long I'm pretty sure my bar is damaged from it.

I was disappointed to find that the 4-matic doesn't get the choice of comfort or sport struts, only the OEM replacements. Bummer. Since I've owned the car its had a bit of a camber issue in the left front. I'm going to notch that new strut to allow a bit of adjustment at the knuckle to correct it.

I wanted to go with new ball joints and c-arm bushings but those damned 4-matic parts are so spendy. My plan is to inspect them with everything apart and get by without having to replace them. Will see how well that works out...

It will be really nice to be able to put a good alignment on it after all this work is done. I've been going with cheap tires to get by. I'm anxious to get the front suspension on par with the drivetrain. The rear suspension is another story. Its pretty worn with 276K, but no glaring problems at the moment though I do have some pretty cool plans for it.

ps2cho · #8 03-12-2013, 10:14 PM

All done and aligned!
The other Ball Joint boot was completely cracked and had almost no grease left inside the boot whatsoever...Glad I addressed it when I did.

From the first little drive it feels firmer and more stable

Let's see if the popping noise has disappeared. Will report after a longer drive tomorrow...Exhausted!!

lorainfurniture · #9 03-12-2013, 10:27 PM

Impressive you knocked it out in one day? Did those large bolts that hold the control arm give you trouble? I remember parting out a car I had and those bolts had to be cut.

cmcdonnell · #10 03-12-2013, 11:17 PM

Great post with even greater pics. I am overdue for LCA's and tie rods/drag link. Where did you find the Lemforder LCA's ?

ps2cho · #11 03-13-2013, 12:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lorainfurniture

Impressive you knocked it out in one day? Did those large bolts that hold the control arm give you trouble? I remember parting out a car I had and those bolts had to be cut.

Wasn't too bad...4hrs total work to do it all.
Ran into one problem though -- The center drag link I bought did not fit. Not sure why. I am going to have to look into why. It was identical, but where it mounts, the threaded end was larger than the one that came off. Luckily this is not the end of the world because I don't need a realignment to do it again.

No problems with the eccentric bolt removal. Did need a big breaker bar of course.

Peachparts offers Lemfoerder.

ps2cho · #12 03-13-2013, 12:58 AM

Shoot...I missed there was a cutoff with the drag link after F114586...

Well, if anybody needs a brand new Lemfoerder drag link at a discount PM Me!! I am guessing anything 89 onwards uses this one.

Zulfiqar · #13 03-13-2013, 06:11 PM

you have PM

glenmore · #14 03-14-2013, 10:52 AM

Nice pics!

In general, do you use new control arms because it is not worth the time and effort to knock out the old bushings and ball joints and press new ones back in?

I have a w202 and have that shift in weight knock.

lorainfurniture · #15 03-14-2013, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glenmore

Nice pics!

In general, do you use new control arms because it is not worth the time and effort to knock out the old bushings and ball joints and press new ones back in?

I have a w202 and have that shift in weight knock.

The cost of bushings, plus the new ball joint, then add some money for pressing in/out at a shop. It gets real close. I believe aftermarket ones where $150e, and genuine oe where $250ish. each.

I think the bushings are around $70, ball joint $30, and then figure 15 bucks to press in.

Ps2, correct me if im wrong